Skiing, Snowshoeing, and Snowmobiling

Yellowstone can be the coldest place in the continental United States in winter, with temperatures of –30°F not uncommon. Still, winter-sports enthusiasts flock here when the park opens for its winter season during the last week of December. Until early March, the roads teem with over-snow vehicles like snowmobiles and snowcoaches, and trails bristle with cross-country skiers and snowshoers. The Lone Star Geyser Trail near Old Faithful Village is a good one for skiing.

Snowmobiling is an exhilarating way to experience Yellowstone. It's also controversial: there's heated debate about the pollution and disruption to animal habitats. The number of riders per day is limited, and you must have a reservation, a guide, and a four-stroke engine, which are less polluting than the more common two-stroke variety. About a dozen companies are authorized to lead snowmobile excursions. Prices vary, as do itineraries and inclusions: ask about insurance, guides, taxes, park entrance fees, clothing, helmets, and meals.

Tours and Outfitters

Free Heel and Wheel. This cross-country boutique outside the West Yellowstone entrance gate rents skis and other equipment and is a source for winter gear, sleds, snowshoes, and advice. Ski lessons and pull sleds for toting children are available. It also rents and repairs bicycles, and has an espresso bar to boot. 33 Yellowstone Ave., West Yellowstone, Montana, 59758. 406/646–7744; www.freeheelandwheel.com.

Bear Den Ski Shops. At Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel and Old Faithful Snow Lodge, these shops rent skis, gear, and snowshoes. Lessons, guided tours, and shuttles to trails are also available. Mammoth Hot Springs, 1 Grand Loop Rd., Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming. 307/344–7311; www.yellowstonenationalparklodges.com.