Getting Oriented

Spending time on the San Juans is all about connecting with the sea, although there’s plenty to see and do—especially on the two largest islands—away from the water, from mountain hiking to sophisticated gallery-hopping. A trip to the San Juans requires a bit of travel, planning, and expense, but visitors nevertheless flock here to spot whales, go kayaking, chill out in endearingly informal inns, and dine on creative, surprisingly urbane cuisine. The most popular boating activity is whale-watching, but each island has its share of parks, bluffs, and coastline to explore.

The San Juan Islands are part of the same archipelago as the Gulf Islands of British Columbia—they’re actually far closer to Victoria, BC, than they are to Seattle. The closest mainland Washington city is Anacortes, about 90 minutes north of Seattle.

• Lopez Island. The smallest, least populated, and most tranquil of the main islands is a largely rural and wonderfully restive place with a handful of charming cafés, a few inns, and traffic-free roads ideal for biking.
• Orcas Island. The rugged and hilly terrain contains the highest point in the San Juans and is the largest in the archipelago, although the pace is easygoing and relaxed. The main village of Eastsound, however, contains a number of sophisticated restaurants and galleries, and you’ll find several fine eateries, inns, and boutique resorts elsewhere on this verdant island.
• San Juan Island. The political seat and commercial center of the archipelago, and the only one of the islands with direct ferry service to British Columbia, is home to the bustling town of Friday Harbor, which abounds with good shopping, cheery cafés, and a mix of midpriced and luxury inns and small hotels. Aside from cultural activities—including a national historic park, art museum, and sculpture garden—you’ll enjoy fine beaches, great roads for biking, and marinas that rent kayaks and boats. Still, even in summer, you’ll discover plenty of quiet, secluded areas on the island in which to commune with nature.