Fodor's Expert Review Café Altro Paradiso

Chef Ignacio Mattos's sequel to his much-lauded Estela, nearby, is an airy, high-ceilinged spot that's called a café but is more of a paradise of satisfying Italian fare. Pasta lovers melt over the perfectly prepared cacio e pepe, but the kitchen also turns out expert fish and meat dishes: perhaps a caramelized fennel-spiked pork chop, pork milanese, or hake with cauliflower and capers.