Fodor's Expert Review State Capital Kitchen

The dangling Edison bulbs, abstract art, brick walls, and decided lack of Southwestern trappings are an immediate clue that this intimate, high-end farm-to-table bistro strives for an urbane, worldly ambience—indeed, it wouldn't look at all out of place in Brooklyn or San Francisco. Chef-owner Mark Connell sources ingredients predominantly from sustainable ranches and fisheries and local farmers and foragers, and his plates burst with flavor and color. The menu changes often but could feature crispy-creamy polenta with wild mushrooms and a farm egg, followed by slow-cooked buffalo short ribs with farro risotto, braised greens, juniper gremolata, huckleberry compote, and natural jus. The five-course tasting menu (a vegetarian option is available) provides a grand way to sample a few different plates. The only knock is that service can be a bit slow.