Fodor's Expert Review Piero's Italian Cuisine

Las Vegas has very few 40-year-old restaurants and none with the legend of Piero's. Located just across the street from the convention center for all but five of those years, Piero's is a blend of "expense account joint" and a classic Vegas mecca for those fascinated by the bygone '80s mob era, having hosted the actual characters depicted in Casino and later serving as a filming site for the movie itself. Little set decoration was needed in the meandering restaurant full of nooks and crannies, low ceilings, and dark paneling with two bars serving giant martinis in the middle of the action. And, oh yes, there's food: The basics are done with detail and served on huge platters, from the osso buco (off menu but usually a special) to pastas such as the Sunday Gravy (rigatoni with both meatballs and Italian Sausage).