Fodor's Expert Review VOLT

Award-winning Chef Bryan Voltaggio returned home to Frederick in 2008 to launch this inventive restaurant in downtown's historic district. Since then, it's had national food writers gushing and gourmands vying for coveted reservations. Situated in an 1890s brownstone mansion, VOLT offers contemporary haute-cuisine, built on seasonal ingredients and local agriculture. Chef Voltaggio, a Culinary Institute of America grad who gained reality TV fame on Top Chef, definitely pushes the culinary envelope. Fare ranges from seven-course vegetarian menus to savory molecular gastronomy. For the latter, he may prepare sweetbreads with flavors of picata, meyer lemon, and kalamata olive; or a sophisticated dessert, like "Textures of Chocolate." Besides an à la carte menu in the 38-seat main dining room, VOLT also features a sleek bar/lounge, a 14-seat Kitchen Dining Room, and "Table 21" located in the kitchen. The extensive wine list includes nearly 500 choice labels. Brunch is served Sunday. As of this writing, buzz had begun about plans (though incomplete) for a second, more casual Voltaggio restaurant in town. In the meantime, lunch offers a three-course tasting menu at a more economic price.