Fodor's Expert Review Mizuna

Chef-owner Frank Bonanno knows how to transform butter and cream into comforting masterpieces at this cozy eatery with warm colors and intimate seating. His menu is reminiscent of California's French Laundry—witness the foie gras torchon—but his Italian heritage has given him the ability to work wonders with house-made pastas and gnocchi, and he often offers a ragout or other long-stewed sauce. Be sure to try the creative desserts (such as brown butter pot de crème, an update on the classic French custard), and expect to be served by the most professional staff, trained by Jacqueline Bonanno, in town.