Fodor's Expert Review Joy

Bringing Taiwanese food made with California ingredients to a formerly Central American--dominated neighborhood may have been a reach, but Joy makes it work by keeping close ties with the community, preserving its building's history, and naturally, making delicious affordable food. Pine & Crane's sister restaurant is more accessible, spice-wise, but the simple-to-make dishes on its small menu are still comforting, wholesome, and familiar to those who grew up eating some versions of them. Expect modest lines during the weekends, but the food rolls out quickly so wait times aren't too long.