Fodor's Expert Review Le Clan

The premise already has foodies salivating: "anthropomorphic universe" of local and organic cuisine. Chef Stéphane Modat, whose fame on this side of the pond is largely due to his masterful time in the kitchen of the Fairmont Château Frontenac, surrounds himself with precious collaborators (the name of the restaurant, "the clan," is by no means a coincidence) and brings his characterful verve to boreal gastronomy. Back in his open-plan kitchen, Modat can't be bothered by decorum; dress in slacks or in shorts, dress however you like, just show up and enjoy the ride. This is the kind of place where it's best to just trust the process—and savoir-faire—and enjoy every miraculous bite. The menu is not posted online and changes daily according to market arrivals (the geographical coordinates of each producer and gardener are listed on the menu), but the mussels, harvested in the icy and remote waters of Côte Nord, are certainly among the best in the world.