Fodor's Expert Review Uxmal
Uxmal rivals Chichén Itzá, Coba, and other Maya sites in terms of its beauty and drama, but its distance from Cancun and the Riviera Maya helps assure that it is less crowded, at least relatively. The especially decorative style of Uxmal and other Puuc Maya sites also makes it of special interest. Although much of Uxmal has yet to be excavated and restored, the following buildings in particular merit attention:
At 125 feet high, the Pirámide del Adivino is the tallest and most prominent structure at the site. Unlike most other Maya pyramids, which are stepped and angular, the "Pyramid of the Magician" has a softer, more refined round-corner design. This structure was rebuilt five times over hundreds of years, each time on the same foundation, so artifacts found here represent several different kingdoms. The pyramid has a stairway on its western side that leads through a giant open-mouth mask to two temples at the summit. During restoration work in 2002, the grave of a high-ranking... READ MORE
Uxmal rivals Chichén Itzá, Coba, and other Maya sites in terms of its beauty and drama, but its distance from Cancun and the Riviera Maya helps assure that it is less crowded, at least relatively. The especially decorative style of Uxmal and other Puuc Maya sites also makes it of special interest. Although much of Uxmal has yet to be excavated and restored, the following buildings in particular merit attention:
At 125 feet high, the Pirámide del Adivino is the tallest and most prominent structure at the site. Unlike most other Maya pyramids, which are stepped and angular, the "Pyramid of the Magician" has a softer, more refined round-corner design. This structure was rebuilt five times over hundreds of years, each time on the same foundation, so artifacts found here represent several different kingdoms. The pyramid has a stairway on its western side that leads through a giant open-mouth mask to two temples at the summit. During restoration work in 2002, the grave of a high-ranking Maya official, a ceramic mask, and a jade necklace were discovered within the pyramid. Ongoing excavations continue to reveal exciting new finds, still under study. As with most ruins in Yucatán, climbing is prohibited.
West of the pyramid lies the Cuadrángulo de las Monjas, often considered to be the finest part of Uxmal. It reminded the conquistadores of typical convent buildings in Spain (monjas are nuns). You may enter the four buildings, each comprising a series of low, gracefully repetitive chambers that look onto a central patio. Elaborate symbolic decorations—masks, geometric patterns, coiling snakes, and some phallic figures—blanket the upper facades.
Heading south, you'll pass a small ball court before reaching the Palacio del Gobernador. Covering 5 acres and rising over an immense acropolis, the palace lies at the heart of what may have been city's administrative center. It faces east while the rest of Uxmal faces west, and archaeologists suggest this allowed the structure to serve as an observatory for the planet Venus.
The Cuadrángalo de los Pájaros (Quadrangle of the Birds) takes its name from the repeating pattern of doves, which decorates the upper part of the building's frieze. The building is composed of a series of small chambers. In one of these, archaeologists discovered a statue of the ruler Chac (not to be confused with Chaac, the rain god), who was thought to have dwelled there.
A nightly sound and light show (8 pm Apr.--Oct., 7 pm Nov.--Mar.) recounts Maya legends. The colored light brings out details of carvings and mosaics that are easy to miss when the sun is shining. The show is narrated in Spanish, but earphones (MX$39) provide an English translation.
In the summer months, tarantulas are a common sight on the grounds at Uxmal.
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