Yucatán and Campeche States Restaurants

Expect a superb variety of cuisines—primarily Yucatecan, of course, but also Lebanese, Italian, French, Chinese, vegetarian, and Mexican—at very reasonable prices. Reservations are advised for the pricier restaurants on weekends and in high season. Beach towns, such as Progreso, Río Lagartos, and Celestún, tend to serve fresh, simply prepared seafood. The regional cuisine of Campeche is renowned throughout Mexico. Specialties include fish and shellfish stews, cream soups, shrimp cocktail, squid and octopus, and panuchos (chubby rounds of fried cornmeal covered with refried beans and topped with onion and shredded turkey or chicken).

Mexicans generally eat lunch in the afternoon—certainly not before 2. If you want to eat at noon, call ahead to verify hours. In Mérida the locals make a real event of late dinners, especially in summer. Casual (but neat) dress is acceptable at all restaurants. Avoid wearing shorts or casual sandals in the more expensive places, and anywhere at all—especially in the evening—if you don't want to look like a tourist. Although food servers at most local restaurants are kind and hospitable, they don’t always show it like they do in the States. Be patient and realize that, for many, the language barrier may cause them to be more reserved but not necessarily unfriendly. It's common practice for restaurants to include gratuity and tax in the total bill, so double-check your bill before adding a tip.

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  • 1. Amaro

    $$

    The romantic patio of this historic home glows with candlelight in the evening; during the day things look a lot more casual. The emphasis here is on vegetarian dishes like avocado pizza and chaya soup (made from a green plant similar to spinach), and healthful juices. (Meat, fish, and shellfish are served here in moderation.) Other local favorites include stuffed mushrooms, spinach lasagna, cochinita pibil, and butterfly chicken breast in a cream sauce. Prices are reasonable, and the service is always excellent. Expect live music in the open-air courtyard daily between 8:30 pm and midnight.

    Calle 59 No. 507, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico
    999-928–2451

    Known For

    • Upscale Yucatecan cuisine
    • Good selection of vegetarian offerings
    • Romantic atmosphere
  • 2. Cuna

    $$$

    This contemporary restaurant at the Wayam Mundo Imperial hotel in the García Ginerés neighborhood has floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking a lush, plant-filled terrace as well as flavorful Italian and Latin American dishes like ceviches, arroz con pollo, and pastas. Chef Maycoll Calderón's allows the fresh ingredients to take center stage, avoiding anything too fussy. The extensive cocktail and mocktail menus make the most of the area's bounty of tropical fruits. 

    508, Mérida, Yucatán, 97070, Mexico

    Known For

    • Stylish decor
    • Innovative dishes
    • Large terrace
  • 3. El Príncipe Tutul-Xiu

    $

    This open restaurant under a giant palapa roof is an inviting spot for lunch or an early dinner (it closes at 7 pm). Though you'll find the same Yucatecan dishes here as elsewhere—pollo pibil, lime soup—the preparation is excellent and portions are generous. Best of all is the poc chuc—little bites of pork marinated in sour orange, garlic, and chiles and grilled over charcoal. (There is also a Mérida location if you don't want to make the trip to the original one.) 

    Calle 26 No. 208, Yucatán, 97850, Mexico
    997-978–4257

    Known For

    • Tasty poc chuc
    • Huge portions at reasonable prices
    • Small-town atmosphere
  • 4. Hacienda Teya

    $$

    A henequen ranch in the 17th century, this beautiful hacienda just outside Mérida serves some of the best regional food around. Start with sopa de lima, then move on to standout mains like poc chuc or cochinita pibil (both served with homemade tortillas). The restaurant has the Yucatán's largest wine selection, and desserts come with a complimentary digestif. After your meal, stroll through the gardens where peacocks roam. Most patrons are well-to-do Meridanos enjoying a leisurely lunch: let that be your guide on what to wear here. A guitarist serenades you and your fellow diners between 2 and 5 on weekends. If you’d like to spend the night, the hacienda has six handsome suites ($$), but you'll need to book ahead for weekends and holidays.

    Carretera 180, Mérida, Yucatán, 97370, Mexico
    999-988–0800

    Known For

    • Largest wine selection in town
    • Country setting with lovely gardens
    • Elegant atmosphere

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Dec. 25–Jan. 1. No dinner
  • 5. La Pigua

    $$

    Glass walls replicate an oblong Mayan house, incorporating the profusion of plants outside as a design element here at the town's favorite lunch spot. Seafood, with a campechano twist, reigns supreme here. A truly ambitious meal might start with a plate of calamari, stone-crab claws, or camarones al coco (coconut-encrusted shrimp). Memorable mains include pan de cazón (a shark-meat casserole that's one of Campeche's most distinctive dishes) and fresh robalo fish topped with puréed cilantro, parsley, orange, and olive oil. For dessert, the classic choice is ate, slabs of supercondensed mango, sweet potato, or other fruit or vegetable jelly served with tangy Gouda cheese. As the sun goes down, candles adorn the white-linen tablecloths, and soft blue lighting illuminates the outside atrium. Known for: pan de cazón (shark-meat casserole); yummy seafood appetizers; unusual setting.

    Av. Miguel Alemán 179A, 24000, Mexico
    981-811–3365
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  • 6. Salón Gallos

    $$

    This innovative cultural complex, bar, and restaurant has brought energy to a part of Mérida that wasn't previously on the map for most visitors and residents. The factory that once stood here now houses a restaurant serving creatively updated Yucatecan dishes, several bars, a gallery, an arthouse cinema, and a pop-up space which typically features the work of a local artisan or collective. Located on Calle 63 between 50 and 52, the area is busy during the day but quiet at night.

    Calle 63 459B, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico
    999-189--6564

    Known For

    • Art gallery
    • Innovative Yucatecan and Middle Eastern dishes
    • Movie theater
  • 7. Apoala

    $$

    Apoala is one of the best choices for Mexican food on Parque Santa Lucia, Mérida's lively, restaurant-lined plaza. The menu includes both Oaxacan and Yucatecan dishes—moles and beef dishes from the former, ceviches and cochinita pibil from the latter. The presentation is elevated without being fussy.

    Calle 60 471, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico
    999-923–1979

    Known For

    • Oaxacan and Yucatecan dishes
    • Outdoor seating
    • Elevated approach to Mexican cuisine
  • 8. Casa Chica

    $

    The food is not the primary draw at this restaurant, though it does a good enough rendition of basic pastas, salads, and burgers as well as some Mexican bar-food favorites. Instead, its popularity is due to delicious cocktails, aguas frescas, and a lively atmosphere. You can choose a seat outside and watch the activity on Paseo Montejo, or sit inside where the people-watching is just as interesting. 

    498B, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico

    Known For

    • Lively atmosphere
    • Outdoor seating on Paseo de Montejo
    • Good value
  • 9. Casa Italia

    $$

    If there were a "Best Pizza in Mexico" contest, we’d nominate this restored colonial gem a couple of blocks north of the main square. Lots of reds and yellows brighten the interior, and the outdoor patio overlooking Parque de la Candelaria becomes prime real estate on beautiful evenings. With 30 years in the restaurant business, most of them spent back in Italy, the owners here know pizza. They whip up 11 varieties, as well as sweet and salted focaccia and enormous calzones. A selection of Italian wines rounds out the offerings. Casa Italia opens at 7—come early if you want to snag a patio table.

    Calle 35 No. 202J, Valladolid, Yucatán, 97780, Mexico
    985-856–5539

    Known For

    • Impressive variety of quality pizza
    • Good wine selection
    • Fun vibe on outdoor patio

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No lunch
  • 10. Casa Nostra Roof Restaurant

    $$$

    The creative menu here developed by its Sicilian chef, Giuseppe Genovese (commonly known as "Beppe"), blends Italian, Mediterranean, and Caribbean cuisine. Locals gather for seafood pasta, grilled lobster, octopus salad, and fresh ceviche, all bathed in garlic and olive oil. Breads, sausages, and pizzas are made from scratch in the small kitchen where Beppe works his magic. The pizza topped with smoked ham, mozzarella, and arugula makes a perfect starter for two. This is the only spot on the island where you'll find authentic espresso, sorbet, and tiramisu.

    Av. Morelos 231, 77310, Mexico
    984-875–2214

    Known For

    • Smoked-ham pizza
    • Authentic tiramisu
    • Gourmet coffee
  • 11. Cenaduría Portales de San Francisco

    $

    Campechano families come here to enjoy a light supper, perhaps a delicious sandwich claveteado of honey-and-clove-spiked ham, along with a typical drink like agua de chaya, a mixture of pineapple water and chaya (a leafy vegetable similar to spinach). The dining area is a wide colonial veranda with marble flooring and tables decked out in plastic tablecloths. No alcohol is served, and you simply mark your choices on the paper menu: for tacos, "m" means maíz, or corn; for tortillas, "h" stands for harina, or flour. On weekends, try the tamal torteado, a tamale with beans, tomato sauce, turkey, and pork wrapped in banana leaves—although not listed on the menu, it's available on request. Known for: banana-wrapped tamales on weekends; stylish veranda; cool evening breezes.

    Calle 10 No. 86, 24040, Mexico
    981-811–1491

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch
  • 12. Chocol Ha

    $

    Follow your nose to this dessert café, where the aromas of French pastries and rich cocoa waft into Campeche's narrow streets. Tucked inside a stone-walled colonial building are small wooden tables and a collection of antiques, like a vintage cash register still used for ringing up transactions. Drink recipes originated from the owner's research into Mayan traditions and her time spent with local families; prepared with the purest form of organic cocoa, they're infused with mint, chile, and more. Not a chocolate lover? You’ll enjoy all-natural fruit juices made with jicama and piña. Crepes and cookies make nice accompaniments. A small gift shop sells locally made products and blocks of dark chocolate. Known for: cocoa-infused everything; relaxed service; pretty coutyard.

    Calle 59 No. 30, 24000, Mexico
    981-811–7893

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No lunch
  • 13. Crabster Seafood & Grill

    $$

    Located right on Progreso's malecon, this restaurant is a notch above its neighbors and has contemporary Yucatecan inspired decor (think: pasta tiles, tzalam wood details, and florescent pink chairs). The menu is extensive but almost everything is from the sea, including shrimp cocktails, Baja-style fish tacos, and platters of crab. There is also a second location at Paseo 60, a collection of shops and restaurants attached to the NH Hotel in Mérida just a block from Paseo de Montejo, but the food tastes better at the original restaurant where it is paired with sea breezes. Reservations are suggested—on warm evenings and holidays weekends, all the tables are often filled.

    Calle Malecon, Progreso, Yucatán, 97320, Mexico
    969-103--6522

    Known For

    • Ocean views
    • Stylish decor
    • Extensive seafood menu
  • 14. El Atrio del Mayab

    $

    This elegant colonial house on the south side of the main square specializes in hearty Yucatecan cuisine. Pollo X'catik (chicken baked in butter cream) and the city's eponymous dish, lomitos de Valladolid (cubed pork loin in a tomato-chile sauce), are menu highlights. If you're not feeling quite so adventurous, you can choose from mar y tierra (meaning, basically, surf and turf) options. The small front dining room is stylish, but we recommend snagging a table in the leafy back courtyard—it's perfect for lunch on a hot afternoon. El Atrio keeps long hours, opening at 7 am and going strong until 11:30 pm.

    Calle 41 No. 204A, Valladolid, Yucatán, 97780, Mexico
    985-856–2394

    Known For

    • Stylish setting
    • Lush courtyard
    • Local flavors
  • 15. El Colón Sorbetes y Dulces Finos

    $

    The homemade ice cream and sorbet at El Colón have been keeping locals cool since 1907. Served in a pyramid-shape scoop, the tropical fruit flavors (like chico zapote, a brown fruit native to Mexico that tastes a little like cinnamon and comes from a tree used in chewing-gum production) are particularly refreshing. The shop also sells cookies and fresh candies—the meringues are exceptional. The tables inside are under whirling fans that make it a comfortable spot on a hot afternoon.

    Calle 62 No. 500, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico

    Known For

    • Tropical fruit flavors
    • Sidewalk seating
    • Local institution
  • 16. El Sushi de Holbox

    $$

    This tiny restaurant fills a void in island cuisine with the day's catch transformed into the sushi roll of your choice. Local favorites include the Holbox Rainbow made with shrimp, salmon, tuna, and sea bass. Nearly every roll is stuffed with cream cheese, an ingredient that makes the sushi far from authentic yet memorably tasty. Placing a sweet spin on the menu is the Banana Roll with shrimp, avocado, and cream cheese topped with fried banana and eel sauce. The restaurant also serves Thai dishes and has a full cocktail menu—the ginger margarita packs a punch.

    Av. Tiburón Ballena, 77310, Mexico
    1984-132–9507

    Known For

    • Ginger margaritas
    • Terrific sake
    • Creative (if inauthentic) sushi

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. No lunch
  • 17. Eladio's

    $

    An outpost of lively Eladio's in Mérida, this bar and restaurant is extremely popular with cruise-ship passengers who disembark in Progreso. You can sample typical Yucatecan dishes like longaniza asada (baked sausage) and pollo pibil (citrus-pickled chicken) while seated beneath a tall palapa on the beach. As you’d expect, fresh seafood dishes are also on the menu. Tasty appetizers are free with your drinks, and there are plenty to choose from. Live music every afternoon except Tuesday adds to the party atmosphere.

    Av. Malecón at Calle 80, Progreso, Yucatán, 97320, Mexico
    969-935–5670

    Known For

    • Yummy free appetizers
    • Ocean breezes
    • Fresh seafood
  • 18. K'u'uk

    $$$

    K’u’uk, meaning "sprout" in Mayan, offers Mérida's most unique dining experience. Located in a historic mansion facing the Monumento a la Patria on Paseo de Montejo, the restaurant's cutting-edge menu features eight courses, each prepared using molecular gastronomy and fresh ingredients, most of them grown on-site. Many of the Yucatecan dishes are cooked in the custom built "pibil" oven, a modernized version of the underground cooking method that gives food that smoky flavor. Although small, each course is a work of art—picture dollops of baby pumpkin dusted with goat cheese the texture of powdered snow or transparent potatoes as thin as tissue paper. Desserts are sprinkled with dehydrated berries, honey-soaked seeds, and cilantro pieces that look more like Skittles. K’u’uk is chic in every sense of the word, from the cutlery and decor to the wine cellar and suave waiters. Plan to stay awhile, since dining takes between two and three hours.

    Av Rómulo Rozo 488, Mérida, Yucatán, 97100, Mexico
    999-944–3377

    Known For

    • Pibil-style (Mayan oven) cooking
    • Leisurely—some say “slow”—dining experience
    • Artistic desserts

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. No dinner Sun
  • 19. La Negrita

    $

    This cantina at the corner of Calles 62 and 49 is popular with locals, expats, and visitors to Mérida with its large courtyard as well as large margaritas and other cocktails. You'll be offered free bar snacks as long as you keep ordering drinks, though it is worth ordering some of the delicious (if basically prepared) ceviches, enchiladas, and tacos, too. Live bands play most evenings. 

    Calle 62 415, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico
    52-999-121–0411

    Known For

    • Live music
    • Mexican bar snacks
    • Oversized cocktails
  • 20. La Poderosa

    $

    Residents of Mérida have strong opinions on who makes the best salbutes and panuchos, two signature Yucatecan dishes, and La Poderosa is at the top of many lists. All the seats at this restaurant in the southern part of Centro—near San Sebastian's square and market—are outdoors, and it's an especially lovely spot on warm evenings. Its evening hours also make it stand out from some other popular casual eateries, which are often open for breakfast and lunch only. A meal of three or four empanadas, panuchos, or salbutes, accompanied by a soda, will only set you back about $5. 

    Calle 70 568D, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico

    Known For

    • Outdoor seating
    • Excellent panuchos and salbutes
    • Cheap eats

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