The Riviera Maya
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1. Aktun-Chen
The name is Mayan for "the cave with cenotes inside," and these amazing underground caverns—estimated to be about 5 million years old—are the area's largest. You walk through the underground passages, past stalactites and stalagmites, until you reach the cenote with its various shades of deep green. There's also an on-site canopy tour and one cenote where you can take a swim. This top family attraction isn't as crowded or touristy as Xplor, Xel-Há, and Xcaret.
Carretera 307, Km 107, Akumal, Quintana Roo, 77750, Mexico984-806–4962Sight Details
Rate Includes: Cave tour USD$29; cenote tour USD$33; canopy tour USD$44 -
2. Cobá Ruins
Mayan for "water stirred by the wind," Cobá flourished from AD 800 to 1100, with a population of as many as 55,000. Now it stands in solitude, and the jungle has overgrown many of its buildings—the silence is broken only by the occasional shriek of a spider monkey or the call of a bird. Most of the trails here are pleasantly shaded; processions of huge army ants cross the footpaths as the sun slips through openings between the tall hardwood trees, ferns, and giant palms. Cobá's ruins are spread out and best explored on a bike, which you can rent for MX$40 a day. Taxi-bike tours are available for MX$120 for an hour and 20 minutes or MX$190 for two hours. If you plan on walking instead, expect to cover 5 to 6 km (3 to 4 miles). The main groupings of ruins are separated by several miles of dense vegetation, but you can scale one of the pyramids to get a sense of the city's immensity. Don't be tempted by the narrow paths that lead into the jungle unless you have a qualified guide with you. It's easy to get lost here, so stay on the main road, wear comfortable shoes, and bring insect repellent, sunscreen, and drinking water. Inside the site, there are no restrooms and only one small hut selling water (cash only). The first major cluster of structures, to your right as you enter the ruins, is the Cobá Group, whose pyramids are around a sunken patio. At the near end of the group, facing a large plaza, is the 79-foot-high temple, which was dedicated to the rain god, Chaac. Some Maya still place offerings and light candles here in hopes of improving their harvests. Around the rear, to the left, is a restored ball court, where a sacred game was once played to petition the gods for rain, fertility, and other blessings. Farther along the main path to your left is the Chumuc Mul Group, little of which has been excavated. The principal pyramid here is covered with the remains of vibrantly painted stucco motifs (chumuc mul means "stucco pyramid"). A kilometer (½ mile) past this site is the Nohoch Mul Group (Large Hill Group), the highlight of which is the pyramid of the same name, the tallest at Cobá. It has 120 steps—equivalent to 12 stories—and shares a plaza with Temple 10. The Descending God (also seen at Tulum) is depicted on a facade of the temple atop Nohoch Mul, which you can climb for an excellent view. Beyond the Nohoch Mul Group is the Castillo, with nine chambers that are reached by a stairway. To the south are the remains of a ball court, including the stone ring through which the ball was hurled. From the main route, follow the sign to Las Pinturas Group, named for the still-discernible polychrome friezes on the inner and outer walls of its large, patioed pyramid. An enormous stela here depicts a man standing with his feet on two prone captives. Take the minor path for 1 km (½ mile) to the Macanxoc Group, not far from the lake of the same name. The main pyramid at Macanxoc is accessible by a stairway.
Cobá, Quintana Roo, 77740, MexicoSight Details
Rate Includes: MX$55 -
3. Laguna de Bacalar
Some 42 km (26 miles) long but no more than 2 km (1 mile) wide, Laguna de Bacalar is the town’s focal point. The lake is renowned for both its vibrant green-and-blue waters and for the age-old limestone formations (stromatolites) that line its shores. Fed by underground cenotes, the mix of freshwater and salt water here creates ideal conditions for a refreshing swim. Most hotels along Laguna de Bacalar rent kayaks and paddleboats; however, there are no beaches or amenities other than those found in rental properties or hotels. English-speaking guide Victor Rosales ( 983/733–6712), who organizes custom excursions throughout the Costa Maya, offers a particularly fascinating tour of the lake's 3.5-billion-year-old stromatolites.
Bacalar coastal rd., Bacalar, Quintana Roo, 77923, Mexico -
4. Rivera Kitchen Tulum
Join a vibrant Mexican mama from the foodie-beloved region of Oaxaca for an excellent four-hour cooking adventure in her jungle kitchen, starting at either 10:30 am or 5:30 pm. The four-plus courses you'll make vary by season, but often include authentic mole and ceviche. Classes stay small, with a maximum of 10 people. Once you're done prepping, stirring, and learning about the cuisine, you'll sit down to enjoy the lunch you prepared. Transportation is provided from Villas Tulum to the jungle house where you'll cook up your authentic local meal.
Carretera Tulum-Cobá, Km 9.9, Tulum, Quintana Roo, Mexico984-129–2690Sight Details
Rate Includes: From USD$77 per person -
5. Sian Ka'an
One of the last undeveloped stretches of coastline in North America, Sian Ka'an was declared a wildlife preserve in 1986, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. The 1.3-million acre reserve accounts for 10% of the land in the state of Quintana Roo and covers 100 km (62 miles) of coastline. It's amazingly diverse, encompassing freshwater and coastal lagoons, mangrove swamps, cayes, savannas, tropical forests, and a barrier reef. Hundreds of species of local and migratory birds, fish, animals, and plants share the land with fewer than 1,000 Maya residents. The area was first settled by the Maya in the 5th century AD—the name Sian Ka'an translates to "where the sky is born." There are approximately 32 ruins (none excavated) linked by a unique canal system—one of the few of its kind in Mayan Mexico. There's a MX$29 entrance charge for the park, but to see much of anything, you should take a guided tour.Many species of the once-flourishing wildlife have fallen into the endangered category, but the waters here still teem with roosterfish, bonefish, mojarra, snapper, shad, permit, sea bass, and crocodiles. Fishing the flats for wily bonefish is popular, and the peninsula's few lodges also run deep-sea fishing trips. Most fishing lodges along the way close for the rainy season in August and September, and accommodations are hard to come by. The road ends at Punta Allen, a fishing village whose main catch is spiny lobster, which was becoming scarce until ecologists taught the local fishing cooperative how to build and lay special traps to conserve the species. There are several small, expensive guesthouses. If you haven't booked ahead, start out early in the morning so you can get back to civilization before dark.
Coastal rd. Tulum-Boca Paila-Punta Allen, Km 15.8, Sian Ka'an, Quintana Roo, Mexico998-887–1969 -
Recommended Fodor’s Video
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6. Tulum
Tulum is one of the few Maya cities known to have been inhabited when the conquistadores arrived in 1518. In the 16th century it was a trade center, a safe harbor for goods from rival Maya factions who considered the city neutral territory. Tulum reached its height when its merchants, made wealthy through trading, for the first time outranked Maya priests in authority and power. But when the Spaniards arrived, they forbade the Maya traders to sail the seas, and commerce among the Maya died. Tulum has long held special significance for the Maya as a symbol of resistance and independence. A key city in the League of Mayapán (AD 987–1194), it was never conquered by the Spaniards, although it was abandoned by the Maya about 75 years after the conquest of the rest of Mexico. For 300 years thereafter it symbolized the defiance of an otherwise subjugated people, and it was one of the last outposts of the Maya during their insurrection against Mexican rule in the Caste Wars, which began in 1847. Uprisings continued intermittently until 1935, when the Maya ceded Tulum to the Mexican government. At the entrance to the ruins you can hire a guide for MX$500, but keep in mind that some of their information is more entertaining than historically accurate. (Disregard that stuff about virgin sacrifices.) Although you can see the ruins thoroughly in two hours, you might want to allow extra time for a swim or a stroll on the beach. The first significant structure is the two-story Templo de los Frescos, to the left of the entryway. The temple's vault roof and corbel arch are examples of classic Maya architecture. Faint traces of blue-green frescoes outlined in black on the inner and outer walls depict the three worlds of the Maya and their major deities, and are decorated with stellar and serpentine patterns, rosettes, and ears of maize and other offerings to the gods. One scene portrays the rain god seated on a four-legged animal—probably a reference to the Spaniards on their horses. Unfortunately, the frescoes are difficult to see from the path to which visitors are restricted. The largest and most photographed structure, the Castillo (Castle), looms at the edge of a 40-foot limestone cliff just past the Temple of the Frescoes. Atop it, at the end of a broad stairway, is a temple with stucco ornamentation on the outside and traces of fine frescoes inside the two chambers. (The stairway has been roped off, so the top temple is inaccessible.) The front wall of the Castillo has faint carvings of the Descending God and columns depicting the plumed serpent god, Kukulcán, who was introduced to the Maya by the Toltecs. To the left of the Castillo, facing the sea, is the Templo del Dios Descendente—so called for the carving over the doorway of a winged god plummeting to Earth. A few small altars sit atop a hill at the north side of the cove, with a good view of the Castillo and the sea. To avoid the longest lines, be sure to arrive before 11 am. Outside the entrance are dozens of vendors selling Mexican crafts, so bring some extra cash for souvenirs.
Carretera 307, Km 133, Tulum, Quintana Roo, 77750, Mexico983-837–2411Sight Details
Rate Includes: MX$65 entrance; MX$54 parking; MX$67 video fee; MX$27 shuttle from parking to ruins -
7. Xcaret
Take a small collection of Maya ruins and build a mammoth theme park around them and you have Xcaret (pronounced ish-CAH-ret), one of the Yucatán Peninsula’s most popular destinations. Among its most-visited attractions are the Paradise River raft tour that takes you on a winding, watery journey through the jungle; the Butterfly Pavilion, where thousands of butterflies float dreamily through a botanical garden while New Age music plays in the background; and an ocean-fed aquarium, where you can see local sea life drifting through coral heads and sea fans. The park also has a wild bird breeding aviary, nurseries for abandoned flamingo eggs and sea turtles, and a series of underwater caverns that you can explore by snorkeling or Snuba (a hybrid of snorkeling and scuba). A replica Maya village includes a colorful cemetery with catacomb-like caverns underneath; traditional music and dance ceremonies (including performances by the famed Voladores de Papantla, or Flying Birdmen of Papantla) are performed here at night. But the star performance is the evening "Spectacular Mexico Night Show," which tells the history of Mexico through song and dance. The list of Xcaret's attractions goes on and on: you can visit a dolphinarium, a bee farm, a manatee lagoon, a bat cave, an orchid and bromeliad greenhouse, an edible-mushroom farm, and a small zoo. You can also visit a scenic tower that takes you 240 feet up in the air for a spectacular view of the park. The entrance fee covers only access to the grounds and the exhibits; some other activities and equipment—from sea treks and dolphin tours to lockers and swim gear—are extra. The Plus Pass includes park entrance, lockers, snorkel equipment, food, and drinks. You can buy tickets from any travel agency or major hotel along the coast. You can also book slightly discounted tickets through Xcaret's website.
View Tours and ActivitiesCarretera 307, Km 282, Xcaret, Quintana Roo, 77710, Mexico984-206–0038Sight Details
Rate Includes: Basic Pass USD$98; Plus Pass USD$125; Night Pass USD$80 -
8. Xel-Há
Part of the Xcaret nature-adventure park group, Xel-Há (pronounced shel-hah) is a natural aquarium made of coves, inlets, and lagoons cut from the limestone shoreline. The name means "where the water is born," and a natural spring here flows out to meet the salt water, creating a unique habitat for tropical marine life. There's enough to impress novice snorkelers, though there seem to be fewer fish each year, and the mixture of fresh and salt water can cloud visibility. Low wooden bridges over the lagoons allow for leisurely walks around the park, and there are spots to rest, swim, cliff–jump, zip-line, or swing from ropes over the water. Xel-Há gets overwhelmingly crowded, so come early. The grounds are well equipped with bathrooms and restaurants. At the entrance you'll receive specially prepared sunscreen that won't kill the fish; other sunscreens are prohibited. The entrance fee includes a meal, towel, locker, inner tubes, and snorkel equipment; other activities, like scuba diving, zip-lining, swimming with the dolphins, and spa treatments, are available at additional cost. Discounts are offered when you book online.
View Tours and ActivitiesCarretera 307, Km 240, Xel-Ha, Quintana Roo, 77760, Mexico998-883–3143Sight Details
Rate Includes: USD$89 -
9. Xpu–Há Beach
Other than the occasional villa and resort, including Royal Catalonia Tulum smack-dab in the center, this stretch of white sand is fairly isolated. South of here are a few spots where you can grab a midday snack, like La Playa Beach Club. There are no hidden rocks in shallow areas, so many people come to swim or snorkel, especially when the winds are calm; the sugary sand is raked, making it a good place for an unobstructed stroll, too. Unlike many beaches, this one isn’t blocked by resort security. You can access it through La Playa or by having lunch at one of the nearby restaurants and beach clubs. Amenities: lifeguards; parking (fee); food and drink; showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: partiers; snorkeling; swimming; walking.
Carretera 307, Km 265, Xpu-Há, Quintana Roo, 77790, Mexico -
10. Zenzi
This beach club and restaurant is one of the few open every day from morning (8:30 am) to late (2 am). Take a dip in the ocean and then catch some rays on one of the sun beds or chaise longues. When the sun goes down, there is live music, shows, and salsa lessons on the beach. Amenities: food and drink; toilets. Best for: partiers; swimming.
Calle 10 at the beach, Playa del Carmen, Quintana Roo, 77710, Mexico984-803–5738Sight Details
Rate Includes: Free with purchase of food or drink -
11. Akumal Bay
Known for the sea turtles that swim in its waters, Akumal Bay is sheltered by an offshore reef—though, sadly only about 30% of it is alive. It's best to explore the waters with a certified guide available through dive shops in town. Do not wear sunscreen in the water as it can harm the reef, and, above all, do not touch the wildlife or coral. Be careful to stay clear of the red "fire reef," which stings on contact. When you drag yourself away from the snorkeling, there are plenty of palm trees for shade, as well as a variety of waterfront shops, restaurants, and cafés. If you continue on the main road, you'll reach Half Moon Bay and Laguna Yal-kú, also good snorkeling spots. Amenities: food and drink; parking (fee); showers; toilets; lifeguards; water sports. Best for: snorkeling; swimming; walking.
Akumal, Quintana Roo, 77760, MexicoNo phone -
12. Cenotes Kantún Chi
This Maya-owned and -operated eco-park has cenotes and a few beautiful underground caverns that are great for snorkeling and diving, as well as some small Maya ruins. The place is low-key—a nice break from the crowds. Bring natural mosquito repellent.
Carretera 307, Km 266, Puerto Aventuras, Quintana Roo, 77750, Mexico984-803–0143Sight Details
Rate Includes: USD$71 -
13. Chacchoben
Excavated in 2005, Chacchoben (pronounced CHA-cho-ben) is an ancient city that was a contemporary of Kohunlich and the most important trading partner with Guatemala north of the Bacalar Lagoon area. Several newly unearthed buildings are still in good condition. The lofty Templo Uno, the site's main temple, was dedicated to the Maya sun god, Itzamná, and once held a royal tomb. (When archaeologists found it, though, it had already been looted.) Most of the site was built around AD 200, in the Petén style of the early classic period, although the city could have been inhabited as early as 200 BC. It's thought that inhabitants made their living growing cotton and extracting chewing gum and copal resin from the trees.
Felipe Carrillo Puerto, Quintana Roo, 77200, MexicoSight Details
Rate Includes: MX$55 -
14. Chetumal Bay
Several grassy beach parks, including Punta Estrella and Dos Mulas, surround the bay. The latter is not recommended due to cleanliness issues. But Punta Estrella has parking, toilets, volleyball courts, and a small boat marina. The water here is calm, if cloudy, and there's plenty of shade from trees and little palapa-topped picnic tables. Popular with fishermen, the bay itself is shallow and the flats go on for miles. Amenities: food and drink; parking (no fee); toilets. Best for: walking.
Chetumal, Quintana Roo, 77000, Mexico -
15. Croco Cun Zoo
The biologists running the Croco Cun Zoo, an animal farm just north of Puerto Morelos, have collected specimens of many of the reptiles and some of the mammals indigenous to the area. They offer immensely informative tours—you may even get to handle a baby crocodile or feed a monkey. Be sure to wave hello to the 500-pound crocodile secure in his deep pit.
Carretera 307, Km 31, Puerto Morelos, Quintana Roo, 77580, Mexico998-850–3719Sight Details
Rate Includes: USD$32 -
16. Dzibanché-Kinichná
The alliance between sister cities Dzibanché and Kinichná was thought to have made them the most powerful cities in southern Quintana Roo during the Mayan classic period (AD 100–1000). The fertile farmlands surrounding the ruins are still used today as they were hundreds of years ago, and the winding drive deep into the fields makes you feel as if you're coming upon something undiscovered. Archaeologists have been making progress in excavating more and more ruins, albeit slowly. At Dzibanché ("place where they write on wood," pronounced zee-ban-CHE), several carved wooden lintels have been found; the most perfectly preserved sample is in a supporting arch at the Plaza de Xibalba. Also at the plaza is the Templo del Búho (Temple of the Owl), atop which a recessed tomb was discovered—only the second of its kind in Mexico (the first was at Palenque in Chiapas). In the tomb were magnificent clay vessels painted with white owls, messengers of the underworld gods. More buildings and three plazas have been restored as excavation continues. Several other plazas are surrounded by temples, palaces, and pyramids, all in the Petén style. The carved stone steps at Edificio 13 and Edificio 2 (Buildings 13 and 2) still bear traces of stone masks. A copy of the famed lintel of Templo IV (Temple IV), with eight glyphs dating from AD 618, is housed in the Museo de la Cultura Maya in Chetumal. (The original was replaced in 2003 because of deterioration.) Four more tombs were discovered at Templo I (Temple I).
Carretera 186 (Chetumal–Escárcega), Chetumal, Quintana Roo, MexicoSight Details
Rate Includes: MX$55 -
17. Fatima Bay
Although the marina is the main focus here, Puerto Aventuras's beaches are naturally stunning and seldom crowded. The main one, Fatima Bay, commonly referred to as Omni Beach, stretches nearly 3 km (2 miles) south between Chac Hal Al condominiums and the Grand Peninsula residence. Its shallow, calm waters are kid-friendly, especially inside the breakwater. Farther out the temperature drops, making for a refreshing swim. To the north is a smaller bay, known as Chan Yu Yum, used by guests of the Catalonia Resort; better beaches lie just south of Puerto Aventuras in the community of Xpu-Há. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: snorkeling; swimming.
Puerto Aventuras, Quintana Roo, 77580, Mexico -
18. Fuerte de San Felipe Bacalar
This 17th-century stone fort was built by the Spaniards using stones from the nearby Mayan pyramids. It was originally constructed as a haven against pirates and marauding bandits, then was transformed into a Maya stronghold during the Caste Wars. Today the monolithic structure, which overlooks the enormous Laguna de Bacalar, houses government offices and a museum with exhibits on local history (ask for someone to bring a key if museum doors are locked).
Av 3, Centro, Bacalar, Quintana Roo, 77981, Mexico983-832–6838Sight Details
Rate Includes: MX$67, Closed Mon. -
19. Half Moon Bay
The crescent bay on the north end of Akumal has shallow water and almost no current, making it a safe swimming spot for children; the snorkeling is also good here (you might even see the occasional sea turtle). Beach chairs and hammocks line the narrow, rocky shore at La Buena Vida restaurant, which has a pool, restrooms, and limited street parking for patrons. The area near Casa Maya is protected by an outer reef; however, the entry point is rocky, so bring water shoes. Bring an umbrella, too—Half Moon Bay is known for its white sand and clear waters, but the lack of trees means you'll have trouble finding shade. Amenities: food and drink; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; swimming.
Beach Rd., Akumal, Quintana Roo, 77760, Mexico -
20. Indigo Beach
BeachCure your morning hangover with the breakfast buffet (M$150) at this beach club beside El Taj Condo Hotel. The restaurant serves fresh fusion cuisine that blends Italian, Asian, and Mexican dishes. Lounge chairs and beach beds are abundant, and there are changing rooms, outdoor showers, and oversized towels for your convenience. A section of beach is used as a launching point by small fishing boats, but the view is still lovely and there is plenty of space to relax. As you enter the water, you'll feel about 20-feet of coral stone before the bottom transitions to smooth sand. The morning yoga and tai chi classes are a great way to start the day. Amenities: food and drink; showers; toilets. Best for: walking.
Calle 14, beside El Taj Condo Hotel, Playa del Carmen, Quintana Roo, 77710, Mexico984-803–2222Sight Details
Rate Includes: Free with food or drink purchase, Daily 8–5:30
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