Mexico City Restaurants

Mexico City has been a culinary capital ever since the time of Moctezuma. Chronicles tell of the extravagant banquets prepared for the Aztec emperor with more than 300 different dishes served. Today's Mexico City is a gastronomic melting pot, with some 15,000 restaurants. You'll find everything from taco stands on the streets to simple, family-style eateries and elite restaurants. The number and range of international restaurants is growing and diversifying, particularly in middle- and upper-class neighborhoods like Polanco, San Angel, La Condesa, La Roma, Lomas de Chapultepec, and Del Valle. Argentine, Spanish, and Italian are the most dominant international cuisines; however, you'll also find a fair share of Japanese, Korean, Arabic, and French restaurants. Mexico City restaurants generally open 7–11 am for breakfast (el desayuno) and 1–6 for lunch (la comida)—although it's rare for Mexicans to eat lunch before 2, and you're likely to feel lonely if you arrive at a popular restaurant before then. Lunch is an institution in this country, often lasting two or more hours, and until nightfall on Sunday. Consequently, the evening meal (la cena) may often be really light, consisting of sweet bread and coffee, traditional tamales, and atole (a hot beverage made from corn and masa and sometimes chocolate) at home, or tacos and appetizers in a restaurant.

If having dinner, most locals start out at 9 pm; restaurants serving dinner stay open at least until 11 pm during the week, and later on weekends. Many restaurants are only open for lunch, especially on Sunday. At deluxe restaurants dress is generally formal (jacket at least), and reservations are recommended; see reviews for details. If you're short on time, you can always head to American-style coffee shops or recognizable fast-food chains all over the city that serve the tired but reliable fare of burgers, fried chicken, and pizza. If it's local flavor you're after, go with tacos or the Mexico City fast-food staple, the torta (a giant sandwich stacked with the ingredients of your choice for about $3). Eating on the street is part of the daily experience for those on the go, and surprising as it may seem, many people argue that it's some of the best food in the city. Still, stick to crowded stands to avoid a stomach illness.

Also cheap and less of a bacterial hazard are the popular fondas (small restaurants). At lunchtime fondas are always packed, as they serve a reasonably priced four-course meal, known as the comida corrida, which typically includes soup of the day, rice or pasta, an entrée, and dessert. There are few vegetarian restaurants, but you'll have no trouble finding nonmeat dishes wherever you grab a bite. Vegetarians and vegans, however, will have a more difficult time, as many dishes are often prepared using lard.

Colonia Polanco, the upscale neighborhood on the edge of the Bosque de Chapultepec, has some of the best and most expensive dining (and lodging) in the city. Zona Rosa restaurants often fill up with tourists, so don't expect to be sitting with the locals here. The Condesa and Roma neighborhoods buzz with a younger crowd all week.

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  • 1. El Tajín

    $$ | Coyoacán

    Named after El Tajín pyramid in Veracruz state and a longtime proponent of the "slow food" movement, this elegant lunch spot inside Jardin Cultural Del Centro Veracruzano sizzles with pre-Hispanic influences. Innovative appetizers include chilpachole, a delicate crab-soup with epazote and macha chile paste, while main dishes might include rabbit in a guajillo mole sauce and octopus cooked in its own ink with red wine, olives, and almonds.

    Av. Miguel Ángel de Quevedo 687, Mexico City, Mexico City, 04320, Mexico
    55-5659–5759

    Known For

    • Lovely setting overlooking a garden courtyard
    • Impressive wine list
    • Artfully prepared pre-Hispanic Mexican cuisine

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted, No dinner
  • 2. La Barraca Valenciana

    $ | Coyoacán

    This casual Spanish restaurant is known both for traditional tapas like tartar de atún con ajillo, croquetas de jamón serrano, and patatas bravas, and for its Iberian take on tortas, the classic Mexican sandwich. The tortas are among the best in the city, some with Mexican touches—like the secretaria (pork leg, chorizo, and cheese)—but the specialties are the calamar (chopped baby squid in chimichurri sauce) and vegetariana (a hearty stack of roasted eggplant and melted cheese). The small, stylish café has a long selection of artisanal Mexican beers, and may be the only tortería in town with a wine list.

    Av. Centenario 91--C, Mexico City, Mexico City, 04100, Mexico
    55-5658–1880

    Known For

    • Anything with squid or octopus (including tortas and tapas)
    • House-brewed artisanal beers (available by the bottle)
    • A pretty good wine list
  • 3. Sud 777

    $$$ | Greater Mexico City

    Young, celebrated chef Edgar Nunez has developed a thoroughly ambitious approach to contemporary cuisine that uses both Mexican and international ingredients—consider seared tuna with jocoque, fennel, smoked grapefruit, and citrus butter, or Veracruz-style beef tongue with quelites and onion. The gently modern space (a 10-minute drive south of San Ángel) merges indoors with outdoors and is one of the sexiest spots in town.

    Blvd. de la Luz 777, Mexico City, Mexico City, 01900, Mexico
    55-5568–4777

    Known For

    • Stellar wine list
    • Elaborate tasting menus with wine pairings
    • A separate sushi bar within the restaurant, Kokeshi

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner Sun.
  • 4. Café El Jarocho

    $ | Coyoacán

    About a block from Plaza Hidalgo, this old-time café whose name translates to "native of Veracruz" has a nearly fanatical following. It has stood at this prime street corner in 1957—many evenings the line for coffee, hot chocolate, mochas, and doughnuts extends down the block well past midnight. There are now a few other—generally less crowded—branches around the neighborhood, but the original is still the most popular.

    Cuauhtémoc 134, Mexico City, Mexico City, 04100, Mexico
    55-5554–5418

    Known For

    • Hot chocolate and mochas
    • Colorful people-watching
    • Crafts vendors selling their wares out front
  • 5. El Entrevero

    $$$ | Coyoacán

    Although a Uruguayan owns this fashionable eatery on Coyoacán's lively Jardín Centenario, the menu will be familiar to fans of Argentine cuisine: the superb provoleta (grilled provolone cheese with oregano), for example, and the stellar steaks. Uruguay's Italian heritage appears on the menu as well, with good pizzas and gnocchi with a creamy gorgonzola sauce.

    Jardín Centenario 14, Mexico City, Mexico City, 04000, Mexico
    55-5659–0066

    Known For

    • Prodigiously aged steaks
    • Clericot (a classic Argentine drink of red wine, sugar, lemon juice, and soda water)
    • Dulce de leche imported from Uruguay

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
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