Fodor's Expert Review Pancho's Backyard

Marimbas play beside a bubbling fountain in the charming courtyard behind one of Cozumel's best folk-art shops. The English menu is geared toward tourists and priced in pesos, but regional ingredients like smoky chipotle chile make even the standard steak stand out for a true Mexican-inspired meal. Other stars include the cilantro cream soup and shrimp flambéed with tequila. Although Pancho's can be busy, the waitstaff are patient and helpful. Cruise-ship passengers seeking a taste of Mexico pack the place at lunch; dinner is a bit more serene.