Fodor's Expert Review La Paloma

This cozy café is inside a former home of city founder Diego de Mazariegos. But that doesn't mean it's a musty museum. It's surprisingly modern, with a curved bar surrounded by vegetation. Start with sopa de flor de calabaza (squash flower soup) or ensalada de nopalitos (cactus salad), then move on to the tongue-twisting albóndigas enchipotladas (meatballs in chili sauce). There's live music most nights at 9.