Comalcalco Town

There's not much to see in this dusty little town 56 km (31 miles) northwest of Villahermosa, but it's the center of what's called the "Ruta del Cacao," or the Cocoa Route.

Hacienda La Luz. Call ahead to arrange a tour of Hacienda la Luz, which is quite close to downtown Comalcalco. It's also known as Hacienda Hayer, because a German doctor named Otto Wolter Hayer bought it in the 1930s and turned it into the most profitable hacienda in the region. On the tour you'll learn everything about the production of cacao, from bean to chocolate. Tours depart at 9 and 11 am and 1 and 3 pm and are in Spanish only. Blvd. Zovirosa Wade, Villahermosa, Tabasco. 933/334–1126; www.haciendalaluz.mx. $5. Closed Mon.

A visit to Comalcalco is pretty much unavoidable if you are visiting the nearby ruins. From here you can take a taxi to the front gate. For about $10 the driver will wait for you while you explore.

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