Fodor's Expert Review Moyuelo

Moyuelo does a welcome, contemporary take on the cemita, Puebla's version of the classic Mexican torta sandwich. The arrachera (thin steak) comes with a peanut-guajillo chili salsa; the chilaquiles (tortilla chips in salsa) are garnished with watercress in avocado oil. The usually basic milanesa (breaded pork loin) has a Parmesan-garlic breading and artisanal cheese from the nearby town of Chipilo. Terrific soups and salads round out the menu. The stylish decor and hip crowd is a rarity in the overwhelmingly conservative atmosphere of Puebla.