Creeping out from under the shadow of Puebla, with a growing nightlife scene thanks to students from the Universidad de la Américas, Cholula is gradually being restored to something of its former greatness. Before the Spanish conquest, the ancient settlement west of Puebla had hundreds of temples and rivaled Teotihuacán as a cultural and ceremonial center. On his arrival, Cortés ordered every temple destroyed and replaced by a church. However, the claim that Cholula has 365 church cupolas, one for every day in the year, is to be taken with a grain of salt.
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