The Highlands
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1. Iglesia de Santo Tomás
Standing watch over the square is this gleaming white Dominican church, Guatemala's most intriguing, busy with worshippers all day and late into the night. The structure dates from 1540, built on the site of an ancient temple, and locals say a block of stone near the massive front doors is all that remains of the altar. The Quiché people still consider Chichicastenango their spiritual city. Perhaps no church in the country better represents the concept of syncretism, the blending of theologies, than does Santo Tomás. Church officials look the other way as Mayan ceremonies are still practiced here today. In fact, once the daily 9 am mass ends, the rest of the day and evening are given over to indigenous rituals conducted by shamans (curanderos in Spanish, or chuchkajaues in Quiché), who wave around pungent incense during the day, and at night toss rose petals and pine needles into a raging fire right on the steps of the church as part of purification rituals. Take care: If you are at all sensitive to heavy fragrance, the incense aroma can be overpowering. The age-old ritual has darkened the once-white steps—18 steps correspond to the months in the Mayan calendar—leading to the church entrance. Outsiders should not pass through the front doors. Instead, enter through the door via the courtyard on the building's right side. Also, under no circumstances should you take photos inside the church. Inside, candles are affixed to 12 tablets embedded in the floor, four each representing sun, moon, and rain. Curanderos place conjoined candles there on behalf of married couples, solitary candles on behalf of single people. Yellow candles represent entreaties for business affairs; blue, for rain; green, for agriculture; and white, for health.
Chichicastenango, Quiché, 14006, Guatemala -
2. Capilla de Calvario
Across from the Iglesia de Santo Tomás is this squat little chapel. It doesn't attract the attention that its much larger neighbor does, but from its steep steps—there are 13, to acknowledge the months in the lunar calendar, or the 13 movements of the body (neck, shoulders, elbows, wrists, hips, knees, and ankles)—you'll have a nice view of the market. As with the Santo Tomás church, photography is prohibited inside.
Chichicastenango, Quiché, 14006, Guatemala -
3. Cementerio
Filled with brightly painted mausoleums, the town's cemetery is one of the most colorful in the highlands. You'll be treated to wonderful views of the city's red rooftops. Among the headstones topped with crosses you'll doubtless find candles and incense—evidence of Mayan rituals. We recommend visiting only with an INGUAT guide. A few robberies of tourists have occurred. If you don't want to walk all the way to the cemetery, you can still get a nice photo from the street in front of the Mayan Inn.
Chichicastenango, Quiché, 14006, Guatemala -
4. Museo Regional Colección Rossbach
If you want to learn more about the history of Chichicastenango, check out this little colonial-era building, which displays pre-Columbian artifacts that came from the private collection of a local priest. Painted scenes depicting Mayan history adorn the front of the building.
Chichicastenango, Quiché, 14006, GuatemalaSight Details
Rate Includes: Q5, Sun. 8–2; Tues.–Wed., Fri.–Sat. 8–12:30 and 2–4:30; Thurs. 8–4 -
5. Parque Central
As in most colonial villages, the heart of Chichicastenango is its central square, and any tour begins here. It's pretty tranquil here when the market isn't open, but not on Thursday and Sunday when hundreds of vendors (and buyers) arrive from near and far. The market long ago outgrew this square, and spills onto adjoining streets. All the major sights are either here or nearby. Three blocks north is Arco Gucumatz, an arch over 5 Avenida where you watch vendors heading to the square the night before or very early the morning of market day.
5 Av. and 7 Calle, Chichicastenango, Quiché, 14006, Guatemala -
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6. Pascual Abaj
Local shamans lead villagers in special rites at this site whose name translates as "stone of sacrifice" perched on a hilltop south of town. The shrine is dedicated to Huyup Tak'ah, the Mayan god of the earth, who receives offerings of flowers, incense, liquor, and, occasionally, slaughtered chickens. Because it's one of the most accessible of the highland shrines, Pascual Abaj often attracts travelers eager to see these rituals firsthand. Be as unobtrusive as possible, and always ask permission before taking photos. (The answer will almost always be no, though.) To see the shrine, follow 9 Calle until you see the signs for the narrow footpath up the hill. Boys hanging around the Parque Central will offer to guide you to the shrine for a small fee, and can tell you when the rituals will take place. Robberies of tourists have occurred along the route, so we recommend using the services of the official red-vested INGUAT guides instead. There is a mask factory on-site.
Chichicastenango, Quiché, 14006, Guatemala
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