Guatemala City Restaurants

1. Altuna

Waiters in white jackets and ties move briskly around the pleasant covered courtyard that serves as the main dining room, once the home of Guatemala City's German Club. Founded in 1948, the restaurant is still serving classic Spanish and Basque dishes such as paella, calamares en su tinta (shrimp in their own ink), and for dessert wonderful torrejas (crusty bread soaked in whole milk, evaporated milk, and condensed milk with a touch of anise). A branch in the New City maintains the old style and impeccable service of the original city-center restaurant.

2. Jake's

If you only have one meal in Guatemala City, head to Jake Denburg's place. A New Jersey–bred painter-turned-restaurateur, Jake uses his creative talents on food, producing dishes ranging from osso buco to crab cakes with avocado-and-wasabi cream sauce. A longtime favorite is the vaquero chino (Chinese cowboy), a tenderloin steak served with a sweet soy, espresso, and star anise sauce. For dessert, the pudín de chocolate and cheesecake with crème brûlée are divine. The restaurant is in a beautiful converted farmhouse with hardwood ceilings, tile floors, an outdoor patio, and a sophisticated lounge. The wine list is quite possibly the best in Central America.

3. Zumo

Occupying an elegant space in the heart of the Zona Viva, Zumo greets diners with simple modern decor, including a comfortable patio and a cozy downstairs bar. Chef Rodrigo Alvarado takes the often overused term "fusion cuisine" seriously, and mixes in-season Guatemalan ingredients with an around-the-world menu. We like the shrimp in mango sauce with avocado butter, the steak in tamarind sauce, and the pumpkin crème brûlée with amaretto ice cream. There's also an extensive wine list (one of the best in the capital, with 60 international offerings), and the service is impeccable.

4. Altuna

5. Arrin Cuan

Ask locals to recommend a place to eat in the Old City, and chances are they'll send you to this spirited Guatemalan favorite. The decor couldn't be simpler—stone floor, small fountain, colorful fabrics, and vases of flowers on the tables. The flavorful cuisine, typical of the Cobán region, includes kaq'ik (a spicy turkey stew), gallo en chicha (chicken in a slightly sweet sauce), and sopa de tortuga (turtle soup). More adventurous types will want to sample the roasted tepezcuintle, a type of rodent. Everyday at lunch and on Friday and Saturday night live marimba music fills the restaurant. There's a branch in the New City, which dishes up the same regional cuisine from Alta Verapaz.

6. Casa Chapina

For an around-Guatemala tour of the country's cuisine, we like this down-home New City restaurant with its bright yellow walls and colorful textiles hung from the ceiling. The emphasis is on meat, including typical national dishes such as pollo loroco (chicken-and-vegetables), pepián (chicken fricassee in pumpkin and sesame sauce), and kaq'ik (a turkey stew from Alta Verapaz). Be sure to accompany whatever you order with the restaurant's warm homemade tortillas.

7. De Mario

The menu here is one of the country's most original, combining flavors from both sides of the Atlantic: you can enjoy such Spanish traditions as paella and roast suckling pig or more local offerings like robalo with a mushroom sauce. During its 25-plus years in business, the restaurant has built a much-deserved reputation for impeccable service.

8. El Cafetalito

Satisfy your caffeine craving and sweet tooth at El Cafetalito, a European-style café whose Swiss owners serve up sophisticated coffees and pastries to an appreciative clientele.

9. Hacienda de los Sánchez

This Zona Viva steak house is known for its quality cuts of beef, yet the atmosphere has won over more than one vegetarian. The dining room calls to mind the American West, with such touches as sturdy wooden tables and old saddles. Eat inside or in the small garden. Grilled meats, chicken, and seafood dominate the menu, and there's a decent wine list.

10. Hacienda Real

This adobe building, set back from the street behind a high wall, is decorated in a Western theme, with tile floors and simple wooden furniture. There's also a pleasant central patio with a fountain and tables with umbrellas. Out front, away from the dining areas, is a small play area for kids. Specialties of the house include steak, ribs, pork, salmon, and robalo, all served with a variety of savory condiments like fresh salsa, pickled carrots, and jalapeños. The attentive, exuberant servers bring endless baskets of warm tortillas, but try not to fill up—the truly incomparable caramel flan shouldn't be missed. To top off the experience, a Latin trio strolls through in the evenings and at lunchtime on Fridays. OTHER="spoke with Fidelia de D'Avila, secretary, [email protected]"/

11. J.K. Ming

Located in the Plaza Fontabella shopping center, this upscale Chinese restaurant is decorated in a contemporary Asian theme, with slate floors, black booths, and painted murals. Through a picture window you can watch your food being prepared in the spotless, state-of-the-art kitchen. Or if you'd prefer to sit outside, there's a pleasant row of tables with the feeling of a sidewalk café. The menu is an eclectic mix of classics such as Peking duck and beef with ginger, as well as owner/chef Jake Denberg's special creations, like crab wontons and shrimp with chile sauce. The barbecue ribs make a great way to start the meal, and the fried plantains with homemade ice cream are the perfect ending.

12. Jean François

Set in a hacienda-style building, away from the bustle of the city, Jean François is one of the prettiest and most tranquil restaurants in town, with a lovely courtyard/garden and tables tucked under the surrounding arcades. If you prefer to sit inside, there's a charming dining room with floor-to-ceiling windows and a cozy fireplace. The food is equally impressive, mostly French classics with an occasional New World touch. For an appetizer, try the warm shrimp mousse wrapped in spinach, and for your main course beef with béarnaise or Gorgonzola sauce, or maybe grilled robalo with fresh tomatoes and basil. The french fries are top-notch, and for dessert our favorite is the wonderful, light mousse de chico (a type of tropical fruit).

13. Kacao

Located in the heart of the Zona Viva, this popular eatery feels more like the beach, thanks to its setting in a huge palapa surrounded by tropical plants. At dinner the soft lighting and candles on the tables make for a romantic atmosphere. Although the menu includes a good selection of meat and fish, the specialties of the house are national dishes such as jocón and pepián; Kacao is also one of the best places in town to try an assortment of Guatemalan tamales. Waiters wear traditional dress, and to complete the effect, lively marimba music plays on the stereo.

14. Los Ranchos

A pretty white colonial facade with picture windows welcomes you to one of Guatemala's best steak houses. Most meats, including the rib eye and chateaubriand, come from the United States, including the specialty of the house, a skirt steak called the churrasco los ranchos. Ask your server to recommend one of the excellent wines from Argentina, Chile, Spain, or France. And save room for dessert, which ranges from tiramisu to tres leches, a type of cake soaked in condensed milk, evaporated milk, and cream.

15. Pan American

A longtime Old City favorite, this courtyard dining room brims with the charm of another era, from the wooden balconies hung with colorful huipiles to the traditional highland dress worn by the waitstaff. The menu has an extensive selection of both international and Guatemalan fare, and among the desserts the coconut cream pie is a standout. On Sunday there is a brunch buffet with live marimba music.

16. Tre Fratelli

This big, raucous restaurant/bar in the Plaza Fontabella shopping complex is the Guatemalan outpost of the popular American chain. As the name implies, the food is Italian, with favorites including fettuccine frutti di mare (with seafood), ravioli alla Bolognese (with a variety of meats), and the quattro stagione (four-season) pizza. Top it all off with chocolate mousse, homemade ice cream, or a cappuccino or espresso brewed in an authentic Italian coffee machine. It's a good place to bring kids if you're looking for familiar cuisine and surroundings.

17. Zurich Chocolateria

Satisfy your sweet tooth on the porch of Café Zurich, a former colonial home. The menu has specialty coffees as well as chocolate, chocolate, and more chocolate.