The Verapaces Voyage

3 days

Day 1: Cobán

The hub of the Verapaces region lies a five-hour drive north of Guatemala City. An early-morning start still gives you an afternoon to explore the town. In particular, hike up to the Calvario shrine for the best views around, or grab a taxi for a short ride just out of town to the gardens at the Vivero Verapaz.

Day 2: Biotopo Quetzal

To paraphrase Benjamin Franklin, early to bed and early to rise gives a man (and woman) the best chance of seeing the resplendent quetzal. Get an early-morning start to head about an hour south of Cobán to the nature reserve specifically dedicated to preserving Guatemala's national bird. Stop for lunch on the way back at any of the family-owned restaurants that line the highway.

Day 3: Semuc Champey and Lanquín

The pools and water caverns of Semuc Champey, about a two-hour drive from Cobán, make a splendid place to cool off with a swim in the midday heat. (The site sits at a lower elevation than cool Cobán, so you will notice the warmth here.) Cap off the afternoon (and cool off some more) with a hike through the nearby caves of Lanquín.

Tips and Transportation

Having your own car is ideal for this region, but public bus service from Guatemala City is comfortable and convenient. Numerous minivan shuttles also connect Antigua with Cobán. Any of the Cobán–Guatemala City buses can drop you at the entrance to the Biotopo Quetzal. You'll need to wait for a return bus at the end of your visit. It's nearly impossible to do Semuc Champey and Lanquín via public transportation, but numerous Cobán outfitters include both as part of a daylong tour. Lanquín, in particular, is best done with a guide who knows the way through the caves; portions of the hike can be very tricky.