Surfing

Surfing is the name of the game in Puerto Viejo, for everyone from newbies to Kelly Slaters. The best conditions are late December through March, but there's action all year. Longtime surfers compare the south Caribbean with Hawaii, but without the "who do you think you are?" attitude. There are a number of breaks here, most famously Salsa Brava, which translates to "wild sauce." It breaks fairly far offshore and requires maneuvering past some tricky currents and a shallow reef. Hollow and primarily right-breaking, Salsa Brava is one gnarly wave when it gets big. If it gets too big, or not big enough, check out the breaks at Punta Uva, Punta Cocles, or Playa Chiquita. Boogie boarders and bodysurfers can also dig the beach-break waves at various points along this tantalizingly beautiful coast.

Rocking J's. If you've always wanted to try surfing, consider the friendly 90-minute surf school ($40) offered through Rocking Js hostel. They'll start you out with a small wave near the bus stop. A two-hour private lesson will run you $60. You can also rent equipment here. Rockin' J's hostel, 1 km (½ mile) southeast of Lazy Mon Beach Café (aka Stanford's), Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Limón, 70403. 2750–0665; www.rockingjs.com.