5 Best Sights in The Central and Southern Aegean Coast, Turkey

The sprawling, well-maintained site of Hierapolis is lovely proof of how long the magical springs of Pamukkale have drawn eager travelers and pilgrims to partake of the waters' supposed healing powers. The ruins that can be seen today date from the time of the Roman Empire, but there are references to a settlement here as far back as the 5th century BC. Because the ruins are spread over nearly 3 km (2 miles), prepare for some walking—or hop on the mini-van shuttle, which runs between the North Gate and the Sacred Pool every 30 minutes. The main points of interest are well marked along the path and include a vast and beautiful necropolis (cemetery) with more than 1,000 cut-stone sarcophagi spilling all the way down to the base of the hill; the ruins of a Temple of Apollo and a bulky Byzantine church; a monumental fountain known as the Nymphaeum, just north of the Apollo Temple; and the Ploutonion, built over a cave that leaks poisonous fumes from the bowels of the earth, so deadly that the Romans revered and feared it as a portal to the Underworld. Below the theater, near the Sacred Pool, the stone building that enclosed Hierapolis's public baths is now the Pamukkale Müzesi (museum) with a fine display of impressive carved sarcophagi and marble reliefs, statues, and funerary stelae found at the site.

Only 7 km (4 miles) from Pamukkale, this down-to-earth village attracts visitors for its "red springs," where the warm water—which bears a red glow due to its mineral content—and gooey mud are popular for their supposed health-giving properties. A small section of the springs is open to the public and flanked by inexpensive restaurants—mud baths and pools that have dead-skin-nibbling "doctor fish" are also available. There's regular dolmuş service from Pamukkale to Karahayıt, which also has a busy covered market area with lots of small local eateries and cafés.

On a hill overlooking the white travertines of Pamukkale about 10 km (6 miles) to the north, the relatively little-visited ruins of the ancient city of Laodicea on the Lycus are perfect for an atmospheric ramble down colonnaded streets, or (with care) down the crumbling slopes of two poetically lovely ancient theaters. Founded in the 3rd century BC, Laodicea passed into Pergamene, then Roman hands, and was a prosperous trading city, known for its black wool. Luxurious public buildings, including baths and a temple to an unknown divinity testify to its wealth. Roman Laodicea's relatively large Jewish population (in the thousands) likely contributed to the early adoption of Christianity in the city, and the basilica, with its extensive geometric mosaics, was one of the "Seven Churches of Asia" in the Book of Revelation. You can join a tour or catch a Denizli-bound dolmuş from Pamukkale center. (The dolmuş drops you off on the main road about a 10-minute walk away from the archaeological site.)

At the very foot of the white travertines, this delightful park with grassy lawns entertains local families and visitors alike, with fantastically shaped pedal boats on the pond, ducks and geese to feed, private swimming pools, a cheery open-air café that stays open into the night, and ice cream stands. It's free to enter; the pools and boats cost extra. Nowhere in town has better views.

There are several reasons visitors flock to the thermal waters of the Sacred Pool at Hierapolis: the bathtub-warm water (a relatively constant 95 degrees Fahrenheit), the reputed therapeutic properties of the mineral-rich water (Cleopatra supposedly used it as toner), and the atmospheric marble columns and ancient stone carvings scattered about. The lushly landscaped complex has changing rooms, lock boxes to store your stuff, souvenir shops, and (overpriced) snack bars. Entry to the pools is expensive (you need to pay to get into Hierapolis as well) but floating over ancient ruins in hot, faintly effervescent mineral water is more fun than it sounds. If you don't want to spend the time/money, you can relax in one of the shaded seating areas with a beverage instead. The pool gets crowded in the summer months so plan your visit for early morning or after the tour buses depart. The pool closes earlier in winter months but it's also much less crowded during the day. Consider bringing your own towel. Locals line up to collect spring water from the on-site faucets, but unless you have a strong stomach, it's probably best to avoid joining them.