The Central and Southern Aegean Coast Restaurants

Dining out along the Aegean coast is a pleasure, especially if you enjoy seafood and fresh produce. There are countless seafood restaurants at all price ranges. A typical meal includes an assortment of hot and cold meze (appetizers), a mixed salad, and the catch of the day, capped off with a Turkish dessert. To make it authentic, accompany your meal with rak? (a spirit similar in taste to oúzo). Some of the more common fish you'll find along the Aegean coast are levrek (sea bass), çipura (sea bream), barbunya (red mullet), and lahos (grouper), as well as tasty smaller fish like sardalya (sardines). Note that most fish restaurants charge per kilogram for whole fish, and the prices often aren't listed; ask before ordering to avoid receiving an unexpectedly large bill at the end of an otherwise pleasant meal. Of course, there are plenty of meat and kebab restaurants around, too, if that’s what you’re craving.

For dessert, try local dondurma (Turkish ice cream, often thickened with orchid root or mastic resin), as well as milk puddings and baklava. It’s often better to avoid hotel restaurants at lunch and dinner—you can frequently find better and less expensive food a short walk away—but luxury and boutique hotels might be an exception as they are often firm favorites on the local restaurant scene. And don’t forget street snacks! In season, you can grab fat local Smyrna figs; a cup of icy, dark berry ?erbet (think of it as Ottoman Gatorade); or a sesame-studded feta-and-tomato sandwich, each for less than a dollar in central ?zmir. Simit, the classic Turkish bagel-like street snack, is called gevrek in the ?zmir region, and often purchased along with a piece of tulum peyniri (goat's milk cheese) and a hard-boiled egg, following an old Sephardic culinary custom.

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  • 1. Arşipel Restaurant

    $$

    Summer and winter, the dining room at the Kırkınca Houses Boutique Hotel is the best in town, overlooking the lovely landscape and serving delicious and authentic dishes prepared with oil produced from olives harvested in the garden. You can accompany your meal with wines produced in Şirince, and the sound of mellow live music on Friday and Saturday nights. Among the delicacies on the menu are creamy eggplant soup; şevketi bostanı, a root vegetable cooked with tender pieces of lamb; and delicious homemade pasta, erişte, served in a light cream and almond sauce.

    Şirince Köyü, Sirince, Izmir, 35920, Turkey
    232-898–3133

    Known For

    • Lovely atmosphere
    • Local wines
    • Erişte (homemade pasta, served in a light cream and almond sauce)
  • 2. Ejder Restaurant

    $$

    This popular spot overlooking the Selçuk aqueduct is run by a friendly family team—husband, wife, and son—and offers a menu that includes such traditional vegetarian dishes as exemplary stuffed peppers and fried eggplant. It may sometimes take a while for the generous, juicy lamb and chicken kebabs to cook in the small hearth, but it's worth the wait.

    Cengiz Topel Cad. 9/E, Selçuk, Izmir, 35920, Turkey
    232-892–3296

    Known For

    • Good veggie options
    • Pirzola (lamb chops)
    • Kuzu beyti (lamb rolls)
  • 3. Gümüşcafé Fish Restaurant

    $$$

    This lovely restaurant on the waterfront specializes not only in fresh fish, seafood, and meze but also serves an excellent summer brunch. Tables are only a few feet from the peaceful waters of the bay, with a truly romantic view of the ancient ruins of Rabbit Island, often with a soft breeze. The waitstaff are cheery and attentive, and though the kitchen has been refurbished almost beyond recognition, it retains a 300-year-old hearth from when it served as the bakery for the surrounding villages.

    1120 Sok. 82, Gümüslük, Mugla, 48400, Turkey
    252-394–4234

    Known For

    • Atmospheric spot
    • Levrek (sea bass) wrapped in vine leaves
    • Stuffed zucchini flowers

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Nov.–Apr.
  • 4. Agora Restaurant

    $$

    This large Turkish restaurant near the Ephesus Museum has an equally large menu, focusing on grilled meats, but also including pide, meze, salads, breakfast, and some specialty desserts. There are also some daily specials, such as roasted lamb on Fridays. Beer, wine, and rakı are available to accompany the well-prepared dishes.

    Agora Çarşısı 2, Selçuk, Izmir, 35920, Turkey
    232-892–3053

    Known For

    • Varied menu
    • Check the daily specials
    • çökertme kebabı (meatballs on top of shoestring fries with yogurt and tomato sauce)
  • 5. Alsancak Dostlar Fırını

    $

    This very popular bakery in hip Alsancak serves up probably the broadest selection you’ll find of boyoz, a round flaky pastry with Sephardic roots that’s these days almost unique to İzmir. Get yours savory or sweet, or perhaps with a hard-boiled egg on the side in traditional style. Go early for the best selection.

    Kıbrıs Şehitleri Cad. 120, Izmir, Izmir, 35220, Turkey
    232-421–9202

    Known For

    • Sweet boyoz filled with tahini
    • Savory boyoz filled with mixed Aegean herbs
    • Savory boyoz filled with eggplant
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  • 6. Asma Yaprağı

    $$

    This small and romantic garden restaurant is a highlight of Alaçatı’s dining scene, with chef Ayşe Nur Mıhçı famed for her fresh renditions of Aegean cooking using seasonal, local produce, especially the region’s wealth of wild herbs and greens. There’s no menu, but the staff will help you select from the options on display in the kitchen. Good local wines are available to accompany your meal. Reservations highly recommended.

    1005 Sok. 50, Alaçati, Izmir, 35930, Turkey
    232-716–0178

    Known For

    • Roasted pumpkin meze
    • Slow-roasted lamb
    • Good local wines
  • 7. Asmaaltı Cafe

    $

    This charming outdoor café and restaurant is just a five-minute walk from the Priene ruins and features a shaded, leafy atmosphere with gazebos and picnic tables. The menu consists of classic Turkish staples and the speciality is gözleme: savory crepes stuffed with either potato, spinach, or cheese. 

    Kahramanlar Caddesi, Güllübahçe, Aydin, Turkey

    Known For

    • Charming outdoor setting
    • Gözleme (savory crepes)
    • Grilled meatballs and kebabs
  • 8. Avrasya Lokantası

    $$

    Hearty traditional Turkish soups, stews, and meat and vegetable dishes are arrayed buffet-style at this cheery lokanta, which is always bustling at lunchtime. At the top of Alaçatı village near the minibus stop, it offers a reasonably priced and reliable alternative to the increasingly expensive fare found farther into town.

    Uğur Mumcu Cad. 22, Alaçati, Izmir, Turkey
    232-716–9144

    Known For

    • Meatballs with pureed potato
    • Mücver (zucchini fritters) with homemade yogurt
    • Lamb and golden thistle stew
  • 9. Ayasoluk Restaurant

    $$

    The Ayasoluk Hotel’s restaurant offers meals in a pleasant dining room and romantic courtyard, both with a bucolic sunset view, and features local and organic ingredients for a light, fresh take on Turkish favorites. It's one of the more intimate and sophisticated dining options in town.

    1051 Sokak 12, Selçuk, Izmir, 35920, Turkey
    232-892–3336

    Known For

    • Homemade soups
    • Fish baked in parchment paper
    • Good wine list
  • 10. Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi

    $

    Fresh, delicious food at reasonable prices in atmospheric surroundings—this is a real find tucked away inside a peaceful stone-walled courtyard amidst the chaotic energy of Kemeraltı bazaar. Make your own plate (cost is by weight) from the colorful variety of lovingly displayed salads, vegetarian dishes, savory pastries, and other home-cooked dishes for a bargain lunch. It closes early, at 7 pm, so it's not a practical dinner option unless you are bringing your food home.

    1437. Sk. 11/A, Konak, Izmir, 35220, Turkey
    232-421–7085

    Known For

    • Assorted börek (savory pastries)
    • Stuffed peppers
    • Closes at 7 pm

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No dinner
  • 11. Babushka Alaçatı

    $$

    Chef Olga Irez's intimate restaurant takes a farm-to-table approach to the food traditions of her and her husband’s Russian and Turkish grandmothers. There are many vegetarian options among the always-fresh meze and appetizer selections, which change throughout the year to spotlight seasonal produce.

    3000 Sok. 38, Alaçati, Izmir, Turkey
    232-716–0070

    Known For

    • Pelmeni (Russian dumplings)
    • Spicy beef liver
    • Stuffed squash blossoms

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed most weekdays in winter. No lunch
  • 12. Bağarası

    $$$

    Tables are tucked into a lovely hidden garden in summer and in cooler weather service is in a quaint, Bodrum-style, one-story house. The Mediterranean cuisine includes some local favorites. Alcohol is served.

    Pınarlı Cad. 59, Bitez, Mugla, 48400, Turkey
    252-363–7693

    Known For

    • çıtır mantı (crispy fried Turkish-style ravioli)
    • Lokum pilav (rice prepared with local herbs and spices)
    • Girit köfte (Crete-style meatballs)

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations essential
  • 13. Bitez Köftecisi

    $$

    A pleasantly old-fashioned place popular with locals, this cozy, casual restaurant a short walk back from the beachfront offers a range of Turkish-style grilled meats, plus a smaller selection of appetizers and meze. Portions are small, but quality high. Alcohol is served.

    Şah Cad. 31, Bitez, Mugla, 48470, Turkey

    Known For

    • Köfte (meatballs)
    • Pirzola (lamb chops)
    • Ciğer (liver)
  • 14. Can Döner

    $$

    Not far from the clock tower at the entrance of Kemeraltı, this small local favorite has served traditional İskender kebabı (and only İskender kebabı) from the city of Bursa since 1981. The spit-roasted meat is sliced thin and topped with melted butter and tomato sauce. A glass of homemade ayran (salted yogurt drink) is the traditional accompaniment to the meal. Alcohol is not served. Come for lunch or a very early dinner, as they're only open until the meat runs out, usually around 6:30 pm.

    Milli Kütüphane Cad. 6/B, Izmir, Izmir, 35250, Turkey
    232-484–1313

    Known For

    • Ayran (a salted yogurt drink) to accompany the kebabs
    • No alcohol
    • Closes early (by 6:30 or sometimes sooner)

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No dinner
  • 15. Çardaklı Restaurant

    $$$

    Bedecked with blossoms, this waterfront restaurant has a classic Aegean air and wide selection of meze, including stuffed zucchini flowers and yogurt with hot red peppers, as well as grilled fish and meat. In high season, the outside tables are usually full with Turks and foreign visitors alike.

    İskele Cad. 13, Yalikavak, Mugla, Turkey
    252-385–2444

    Known For

    • Grilled octopus
    • Vine-leaf-wrapped levrek (sea bass)
    • Levrek marin (marinated sea bass)

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations essential
  • 16. Dallas Balik Ekmek Lokantasi

    $

    The more blue-collar or on-the-go way to eat fish in Turkey is the balik ekmek, a salty grilled fish sandwich often stuffed with onion, tomato, and lettuce. With Dikili's access to quality fresh fish, the flavor multiplies at this portside restaurant, with tables spilling out onto the street. Other classic Turkish seafood dishes available include fried calamari and mussels stuffed with rice, pine nuts, and currants.

    20 Atatürk Cd., Dikili, Izmir, Turkey
    0232-671–4116

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No credit cards
  • 17. Denizhan Et Lokantası

    $$$

    Famed for its kebabs and other meat dishes, Denizhan also serves up very good meze and appetizers, including lahmacun (Turkish-style whisper-thin flatbread topped with spices and minced meat) and vegetable dishes such as mustard greens salad. The restaurant has a prime location on the Bodrum waterfront and an extensive wine list.

    Neyzen Teyfik Cad. 182/C, Bodrum, Mugla, 48400, Turkey
    252-313–2728

    Known For

    • Excellent veggie meze
    • Adana kebab
    • Kuzu pirzola (lamb chops)

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations essential
  • 18. Dost Pide & Pizza

    $$

    Stopping here for pide (Turkish-style pizza or calzones, piled with a variety of ingredients that can include cheese, spinach, meat, or egg) is a highlight of a trip to Ilıca and a great choice for a quick lunch, or even breakfast, though on the pricey side compared to similar fare elsewhere. The menu also includes kebabs, soup, pizza, and traditional Turkish desserts.

    5152 Sok. 27, Ilica, Izmir, 35930, Turkey
    232-723–2059

    Known For

    • Kıymalı (mincemeat) pide
    • Good breakfast stop
    • Open 24 hours in peak season
  • 19. Dükkan

    $$

    This small and colorful eatery serving Greek and Turkish fare is an increasingly rare find in ever more chic Bodrum. Choose from meze like smoked fish or roasted eggplant with tahini sauce, followed by fresh fish, ending perhaps with a cream-topped candied mandarin for dessert. Reservations are recommended.

    Adliye Sok. 5, Bodrum, Mugla, Turkey
    530-341–6620

    Known For

    • Grilled squid
    • Fried calamari
    • Homey vibe

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No lunch
  • 20. Eski Ev

    $$

    The Ottoman motifs seem a bit touristy, but the place is done up nicely, in the peaceful, open-air courtyard of an old house, shaded by a towering grapefruit tree. Eski Ev ("old house" in Turkish) serves a wide selection of Turkish meze (appetizers) and main dishes, including some nice choices for vegetarians. The restaurant's specialty is a delicious concoction of lamb, vegetables, and rice, served on a copper dish with its own tiny flame beneath.

    1005 Sok. 1/A, Selçuk, Izmir, 35920, Turkey
    232-892–9357

    Known For

    • The Old House special (lamb with vegetables and rice)
    • Good vegetarian options
    • Pleasant atmosphere

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