The Central and Southern Aegean Coast Restaurants

Dining out along the Aegean coast is a pleasure, especially if you enjoy seafood and fresh produce. There are countless seafood restaurants at all price ranges. A typical meal includes an assortment of hot and cold meze (appetizers), a mixed salad, and the catch of the day, capped off with a Turkish dessert. To make it authentic, accompany your meal with rak? (a spirit similar in taste to oúzo). Some of the more common fish you'll find along the Aegean coast are levrek (sea bass), çipura (sea bream), barbunya (red mullet), and lahos (grouper), as well as tasty smaller fish like sardalya (sardines). Note that most fish restaurants charge per kilogram for whole fish, and the prices often aren't listed; ask before ordering to avoid receiving an unexpectedly large bill at the end of an otherwise pleasant meal. Of course, there are plenty of meat and kebab restaurants around, too, if that’s what you’re craving.

For dessert, try local dondurma (Turkish ice cream, often thickened with orchid root or mastic resin), as well as milk puddings and baklava. It’s often better to avoid hotel restaurants at lunch and dinner—you can frequently find better and less expensive food a short walk away—but luxury and boutique hotels might be an exception as they are often firm favorites on the local restaurant scene. And don’t forget street snacks! In season, you can grab fat local Smyrna figs; a cup of icy, dark berry ?erbet (think of it as Ottoman Gatorade); or a sesame-studded feta-and-tomato sandwich, each for less than a dollar in central ?zmir. Simit, the classic Turkish bagel-like street snack, is called gevrek in the ?zmir region, and often purchased along with a piece of tulum peyniri (goat's milk cheese) and a hard-boiled egg, following an old Sephardic culinary custom.

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  • 1. Agrilia Restaurant

    $$$

    This Mediterranean restaurant was around (in a different location) long before the rest of Alaçatı's trendy dining options came on the scene, and remains one of the best and most stylish in town. The deliciously inventive food and romantic garden courtyard atmosphere make Agrilia a local favorite. There's a good wine list and some creative cocktails on the menu.

    Alaçati mahallesi 11016 sokak 5, Çesme, Izmir, 35930, Turkey
    232-716–8594

    Known For

    • Longtime favorite
    • Creative cocktails
    • Good wine list

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed weekdays Nov.--June. No lunch summer, Reservations essential
  • 2. Aquarium

    $$$

    At this waterfront restaurant, you should begin your meal with a selection of meze, like stuffed zucchini flowers, roasted eggplant with tulum cheese, and octopus salad. Then you can let the owner, Cengiz Bey, help you select the best local fish for the grill. Whatever you choose, don't skip dessert: Gaziantep baklava or irmik helvası (traditional warm semolina halvah) served with ice cream.

    Yalı Mevkii 54, Gümüslük, Mugla, 48400, Turkey
    252-394–3682

    Known For

    • Spectacular meze
    • Aquarium special (shrimp and octopus cooked with garlic, butter, and flame-roasted peppers and eggplant)
    • Delicious desserts

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations essential
  • 3. Arşipel Restaurant

    $$

    Summer and winter, the dining room at the Kırkınca Houses Boutique Hotel is the best in town, overlooking the lovely landscape and serving delicious and authentic dishes prepared with oil produced from olives harvested in the garden. You can accompany your meal with wines produced in Şirince, and the sound of mellow live music on Friday and Saturday nights. Among the delicacies on the menu are creamy eggplant soup; şevketi bostanı, a root vegetable cooked with tender pieces of lamb; and delicious homemade pasta, erişte, served in a light cream and almond sauce.

    Şirince Köyü, Sirince, Izmir, 35920, Turkey
    232-898–3133

    Known For

    • Lovely atmosphere
    • Local wines
    • Erişte (homemade pasta, served in a light cream and almond sauce)
  • 4. Dalyan Restaurant (Cevat'ın Yeri)

    $$$

    This outdoor terrace overlooking the waterfront is an ideal spot in Dalyanköy for a splurgy seafood dinner. After meze of kabak çiçeği dolması (stuffed zucchini flowers) and deniz börülcesi (samphire), and a main of tuzda balık (fish baked in salt), try to find room for sakızlı muhallebi, creamy traditional milk pudding flavored with gum mastic.

    4226 Sok. 45/A, Çesme, Izmir, 35930, Turkey
    232-724–7045

    Known For

    • Unusual (and delicious) meze
    • Tuzda balık (fish baked in salt)
    • Gracious service

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations essential
  • 5. Ejder Restaurant

    $$

    This popular spot overlooking the Selçuk aqueduct is run by a friendly family team—husband, wife, and son—and offers a menu that includes such traditional vegetarian dishes as exemplary stuffed peppers and fried eggplant. It may sometimes take a while for the generous, juicy lamb and chicken kebabs to cook in the small hearth, but it's worth the wait.

    Cengiz Topel Cad. 9/E, Selçuk, Izmir, 35920, Turkey
    232-892–3296

    Known For

    • Good veggie options
    • Pirzola (lamb chops)
    • Kuzu beyti (lamb rolls)
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  • 6. Garo's

    $$$

    The peripatetic Turkish-Armenian maestro Garo heads the kitchen at this enduringly popular stone cottage–turned–waterfront restaurant in Türkbükü with a comfy Greek-taverna feel, friendly staff, and an outdoor terrace with blue-and-white checkered tablecloths. If you're not in the mood for seafood and meze, there are spicy Turkish meatballs or a Bodrum specialty, çökertme kebabı (beef strips over fried potatoes with yogurt sauce).

    83 Sok. 9, Göltürkbükü, Mugla, 48400, Turkey
    252-377–6171

    Known For

    • Friendly vibe
    • Grilled octopus
    • Veal cheek

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Oct.–Apr., Reservations essential
  • 7. Gümüşcafé Fish Restaurant

    $$$

    This lovely restaurant on the waterfront specializes not only in fresh fish, seafood, and meze but also serves an excellent summer brunch. Tables are only a few feet from the peaceful waters of the bay, with a truly romantic view of the ancient ruins of Rabbit Island, often with a soft breeze. The waitstaff are cheery and attentive, and though the kitchen has been refurbished almost beyond recognition, it retains a 300-year-old hearth from when it served as the bakery for the surrounding villages.

    1120 Sok. 82, Gümüslük, Mugla, 48400, Turkey
    252-394–4234

    Known For

    • Atmospheric spot
    • Levrek (sea bass) wrapped in vine leaves
    • Stuffed zucchini flowers

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Nov.–Apr.
  • 8. İsabey Bağevi

    $$$

    The owners of Sevilen, one of Turkey’s best-known wine brands, have renovated and opened their family home to visitors as a fine-dining restaurant in a bucolic setting near İzmir airport. Grilled meats are the focus of the menu, which also includes tasty salads and starters—along with Sevilen wine pairings, of course. Summertime meals are served under a 300-year-old plane tree that provides cooling shade on a hot day.

    901 Sok. 38, Izmir, Turkey
    232-782–4959

    Known For

    • Lovely setting
    • Dry-aged steaks
    • Summer meals under the plane tree
  • 9. Kalamare

    $$

    Down a quiet, pretty alley just a two-minute stroll from the waterfront, the white, candlelit tables at this seafood restaurant quickly fill with hungry locals. Accompany a heaping plate of fried local calamari (probably the most generous in town) with a tasting plate of up to four vegetable meze with toasted bread, and, if you're still hungry, order grilled fish and (more) rakı.

    Sanat Okulu Cad. 9, Bodrum, Mugla, 48400, Turkey
    252-316–7076

    Known For

    • Candlelit atmosphere
    • Calamari every way, including stuffed with shrimp and cheese
    • Köpoğlu (garlicky eggplant meze)
  • 10. Agora Restaurant

    $$

    This large Turkish restaurant near the Ephesus Museum has an equally large menu, focusing on grilled meats, but also including pide, meze, salads, breakfast, and some specialty desserts. There are also some daily specials, such as roasted lamb on Fridays. Beer, wine, and rakı are available to accompany the well-prepared dishes.

    Agora Çarşısı 2, Selçuk, Izmir, 35920, Turkey
    232-892–3053

    Known For

    • Varied menu
    • Check the daily specials
    • çökertme kebabı (meatballs on top of shoestring fries with yogurt and tomato sauce)
  • 11. Alaçatı Tatlıcısı İmren

    $

    This local favorite is the place to come for dessert; in addition to black forest cake and semolina cake, there's ice cream in many different flavors, served in a homemade waffle cone. Sakızlı muhallebi, a local specialty, is Turkish milk pudding flavored with gum mastic, the aromatic resin of the mastic tree. A beloved local brand, İmren has opened a casual Turkish restaurant on the same street (Kemalpaşa Cad. 70), as well as an Alaçatı hotel.

    Kemalpaşa Cad. 65 and 72, Alaçati, Izmir, 35000, Turkey
    232-716–8356

    Known For

    • Variety of delicious cakes
    • Mastic cookies
    • There's also an İmren restaurant on the same street (Kemalpaşa Cad. 70)

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch or dinner
  • 12. Alsancak Dostlar Fırını

    $

    This very popular bakery in hip Alsancak serves up probably the broadest selection you’ll find of boyoz, a round flaky pastry with Sephardic roots that’s these days almost unique to İzmir. Get yours savory or sweet, or perhaps with a hard-boiled egg on the side in traditional style. Go early for the best selection.

    Kıbrıs Şehitleri Cad. 120, Izmir, Izmir, 35220, Turkey
    232-421–9202

    Known For

    • Sweet boyoz filled with tahini
    • Savory boyoz filled with mixed Aegean herbs
    • Savory boyoz filled with eggplant
  • 13. Asian Kitchen & Cafe

    $$

    Travelers craving a change from the usual Turkish fare will be happy to find this establishment right smack in the middle of Pammukale. Catering to the growing number of Asian tourists in the area, it turns out surprisingly authentic versions of mostly Chinese, Taiwanese, and Korean specialties, including noodle dishes, soups, and stir-fries. Service can be slow and there’s not much in the way of decor. No alcohol.

    Cumhuriyet Meydanı 14/A, Pamukkale, Denizli, 20190, Turkey
    544-388--5666

    Known For

    • Hot pot (winter only)
    • Korean mixed-rice dish bibimbap
    • Taiwanese beef noodle soup
  • 14. Asma Yaprağı

    $$

    This small and romantic garden restaurant is a highlight of Alaçatı’s dining scene, with chef Ayşe Nur Mıhçı famed for her fresh renditions of Aegean cooking using seasonal, local produce, especially the region’s wealth of wild herbs and greens. There’s no menu, but the staff will help you select from the options on display in the kitchen. Good local wines are available to accompany your meal. Reservations highly recommended.

    1005 Sok. 50, Alaçati, Izmir, 35930, Turkey
    232-716–0178

    Known For

    • Roasted pumpkin meze
    • Slow-roasted lamb
    • Good local wines
  • 15. Asmaaltı Cafe

    $

    This charming outdoor café and restaurant is just a five-minute walk from the Priene ruins and features a shaded, leafy atmosphere with gazebos and picnic tables. The menu consists of classic Turkish staples and the speciality is gözleme: savory crepes stuffed with either potato, spinach, or cheese. 

    Kahramanlar Caddesi, Güllübahçe, Aydin, Turkey

    Known For

    • Charming outdoor setting
    • Gözleme (savory crepes)
    • Grilled meatballs and kebabs
  • 16. Atılay Balık

    $$$

    With fishnets on the ceiling and simple tables under strands of small lights outside, this laid-back fish restaurant on the waterfront in Türkbükü has a nautical vibe. Start your meal with a selection of seafood or vegetable meze, and save room for the house special dessert, helva sarma (phyllo-dough rolls filled with tahini paste, flavored with cinnamon, and served with ice cream and chocolate sauce).

    Liman Cad. 81/B, Göltürkbükü, Mugla, Turkey
    252-377–5095

    Known For

    • Laid back but romantic setting
    • Grilled octopus
    • Levrek lokum (sea bass morsels)
  • 17. Avrasya Lokantası

    $$

    Hearty traditional Turkish soups, stews, and meat and vegetable dishes are arrayed buffet-style at this cheery lokanta, which is always bustling at lunchtime. At the top of Alaçatı village near the minibus stop, it offers a reasonably priced and reliable alternative to the increasingly expensive fare found farther into town.

    Uğur Mumcu Cad. 22, Alaçati, Izmir, Turkey
    232-716–9144

    Known For

    • Meatballs with pureed potato
    • Mücver (zucchini fritters) with homemade yogurt
    • Lamb and golden thistle stew
  • 18. Ayasoluk Restaurant

    $$

    The Ayasoluk Hotel’s restaurant offers meals in a pleasant dining room and romantic courtyard, both with a bucolic sunset view, and features local and organic ingredients for a light, fresh take on Turkish favorites. It's one of the more intimate and sophisticated dining options in town.

    1051 Sokak 12, Selçuk, Izmir, 35920, Turkey
    232-892–3336

    Known For

    • Homemade soups
    • Fish baked in parchment paper
    • Good wine list
  • 19. Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi

    $

    Fresh, delicious food at reasonable prices in atmospheric surroundings—this is a real find tucked away inside a peaceful stone-walled courtyard amidst the chaotic energy of Kemeraltı bazaar. Make your own plate (cost is by weight) from the colorful variety of lovingly displayed salads, vegetarian dishes, savory pastries, and other home-cooked dishes for a bargain lunch. It closes early, at 7 pm, so it's not a practical dinner option unless you are bringing your food home.

    1437. Sk. 11/A, Konak, Izmir, 35220, Turkey
    232-421–7085

    Known For

    • Assorted börek (savory pastries)
    • Stuffed peppers
    • Closes at 7 pm

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No dinner
  • 20. Babushka Alaçatı

    $$

    Chef Olga Irez's intimate restaurant takes a farm-to-table approach to the food traditions of her and her husband’s Russian and Turkish grandmothers. There are many vegetarian options among the always-fresh meze and appetizer selections, which change throughout the year to spotlight seasonal produce.

    3000 Sok. 38, Alaçati, Izmir, Turkey
    232-716–0070

    Known For

    • Pelmeni (Russian dumplings)
    • Spicy beef liver
    • Stuffed squash blossoms

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed most weekdays in winter. No lunch

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