The Central and Southern Aegean Coast Restaurants

Dining out along the Aegean coast is a pleasure, especially if you enjoy seafood and fresh produce. There are countless seafood restaurants at all price ranges. A typical meal includes an assortment of hot and cold meze (appetizers), a mixed salad, and the catch of the day, capped off with a Turkish dessert. To make it authentic, accompany your meal with rak? (a spirit similar in taste to oúzo). Some of the more common fish you'll find along the Aegean coast are levrek (sea bass), çipura (sea bream), barbunya (red mullet), and lahos (grouper), as well as tasty smaller fish like sardalya (sardines). Note that most fish restaurants charge per kilogram for whole fish, and the prices often aren't listed; ask before ordering to avoid receiving an unexpectedly large bill at the end of an otherwise pleasant meal. Of course, there are plenty of meat and kebab restaurants around, too, if that’s what you’re craving.

For dessert, try local dondurma (Turkish ice cream, often thickened with orchid root or mastic resin), as well as milk puddings and baklava. It’s often better to avoid hotel restaurants at lunch and dinner—you can frequently find better and less expensive food a short walk away—but luxury and boutique hotels might be an exception as they are often firm favorites on the local restaurant scene. And don’t forget street snacks! In season, you can grab fat local Smyrna figs; a cup of icy, dark berry ?erbet (think of it as Ottoman Gatorade); or a sesame-studded feta-and-tomato sandwich, each for less than a dollar in central ?zmir. Simit, the classic Turkish bagel-like street snack, is called gevrek in the ?zmir region, and often purchased along with a piece of tulum peyniri (goat's milk cheese) and a hard-boiled egg, following an old Sephardic culinary custom.

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  • 1. Gümüşcafé Fish Restaurant

    $$$

    This lovely restaurant on the waterfront specializes not only in fresh fish, seafood, and meze but also serves an excellent summer brunch. Tables are only a few feet from the peaceful waters of the bay, with a truly romantic view of the ancient ruins of Rabbit Island, often with a soft breeze. The waitstaff are cheery and attentive, and though the kitchen has been refurbished almost beyond recognition, it retains a 300-year-old hearth from when it served as the bakery for the surrounding villages.

    1120 Sok. 82, Gümüslük, Mugla, 48400, Turkey
    252-394–4234

    Known For

    • Atmospheric spot
    • Levrek (sea bass) wrapped in vine leaves
    • Stuffed zucchini flowers

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Nov.–Apr.
  • 2. Cafe La Cigale

    $$$

    Hidden away on a side street off busy Cumhuriyet Bulvarı, this peaceful garden oasis attached to the French Cultural Center offers a range of well-prepared Mediterranean dishes, including fresh, flavorful salads, pastas, and grilled meats. There's a winter garden for cold-weather days and regular live jazz, generally on Wednesday and Friday nights.

    Cumhuriyet Bul. 152, Izmir, Izmir, Turkey
    232-421–4780

    Known For

    • Risottos
    • Seafood pizza
    • Live music

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun.
  • 3. Dost Pide & Pizza

    $$

    Stopping here for pide (Turkish-style pizza or calzones, piled with a variety of ingredients that can include cheese, spinach, meat, or egg) is a highlight of a trip to Ilıca and a great choice for a quick lunch, or even breakfast, though on the pricey side compared to similar fare elsewhere. The menu also includes kebabs, soup, pizza, and traditional Turkish desserts.

    5152 Sok. 27, Ilica, Izmir, 35930, Turkey
    232-723–2059

    Known For

    • Kıymalı (mincemeat) pide
    • Good breakfast stop
    • Open 24 hours in peak season
  • 4. Körfez

    $$$

    This long-standing, family-run fish house overlooks the harbor and is especially noted for a wide selection of Cretan dishes and seafood appetizers that include delectable shrimp cooked in butter, garlic, and seaweed. A local institution with courteous waitstaff, Körfez also serves some meat dishes.

    Neyzen Tevfik Cad. 2, Bodrum, Mugla, 48400, Turkey
    252-313–8248

    Known For

    • Fried calamari
    • Fish soup
    • Good brunch
  • 5. Limon Cafe

    $$$

    Settle into a lovely, fig-scented garden about 2 km (1 mile) outside town, overlooking citrus trees, the sea, and the ancient city of Myndos and enjoy a meal in these rural surroundings. While the late-risers' breakfast, served until 3 pm daily is a draw, the crowds come for dinner at sunset. Lunch or dinner should begin with the excellent fried calamari; the mantı (Turkish-style ravioli) is homemade.

    Kardak Cad. 7, Gümüslük, Mugla, 48400, Turkey
    252-394–4044

    Known For

    • House-specialty cocktails
    • The sunset views
    • Homemade mantı (Turkish-style ravioli)

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Oct.–Apr., Reservations essential
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  • 6. Mavi Park Restaurant

    $$$

    This waterfront spot in pleasant Şevket Sabancı Park, just outside Turgutreis city center, has grand views of the sea along with a nice selection of Turkish and international dishes (though, perhaps surprisingly given the location, no fish). Alcohol is served and reservations advisable in high season.

    Gazi Mustafa Kemal Bul., Turgutreis, Mugla, 48400, Turkey
    252-382–2608

    Known For

    • Kebabs
    • Patlıcan sarması (eggplant rolls)
    • Turkish breakfast
  • 7. Reyhan Patisserie

    $

    With a huge variety of baked goods and desserts, excellent house-made ice cream and chocolates, this pastry shop has been popular for decades. This branch of the legendary patisserie, in the heart of trendy Alsancak, is also a sit-down café serving coffee and Turkish-style breakfast.

    Dr. Mustafa Enver Bey Cad. 24, Izmir, Izmir, 35260, Turkey
    232-422–2802

    Known For

    • Strawberry cheesecake
    • Profiteroles
    • Sütlaç (creamy rice pudding)

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch or dinner
  • 8. The Lemon Tree

    $$$

    With a big menu of both Turkish and international fare, including pizza, pasta, salads, and grilled meats, this popular spot sits right on the beach in Bitez, with a lovely view of the cove. Service is friendly but can be a bit harried when it’s busy. There is sometimes live music in the evenings.

    Çökertme Cad. 82, Bitez, Mugla, Turkey
    252-363–9543

    Known For

    • Burgers
    • Steaks
    • çökertme kebab (sliced beef served with green peppers and potatoes)
  • 9. Zeytinlina Restaurant

    $$

    A broad, mostly reasonably priced menu of well-executed dishes—both Turkish and international—is offered in a setting that encourages leisurely lingering over a meal. Tables are scattered throughout a peaceful, beautifully landscaped garden with sea views, and there’s a beach, too, if you want to cool off.

    Plaj Cad. 64/1, Yalikavak, Mugla, 48990, Turkey
    252-385–5758

    Known For

    • Turkish breakfast
    • Full bar
    • Pizza

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