2 Best Sights in Cappadocia and Central Turkey, Turkey

The landscape changes dramatically when you head south through Cappadocia toward Ihlara: the dusty plains turn rich with vegetation along the Melendiz River, which has carved cliffs as high as 490 feet. Walking the entire valley takes the better part of a day, but if you just want to get a taste of it, the most interesting part is the middle section. A few fresco-decorated churches are within walking distance of one another, including the Ağaçaltı (Under-a-Tree) church, Kokar (Fragrant) church, Yılanlı (Serpent) church, and the Church of St. George. Belisırma village, about 2 km (1 mile) north of the Ihlara Vadisi Turistik Tesisleri and roughly a three-hour walk from either end of the valley, has a handful of scenic restaurants, some of which have open-air cabanas built on stilts over the river—an idyllic place for a simple meal, accompanied by the relaxing sound of running water. Just outside the north end of the valley, Selime Monastery is a huge rock-cut complex with a chapel, two levels of rooms, and lots of nooks and crannies.

These two scenic wooded valleys that form a V-shape were home to a monastic community during Byzantine times, and there are hundreds of rock dwellings and churches cut into the cliffs. The northern, or "upper," valley (on the right-hand side), has most of the churches, while the southern, or "lower," valley is noteworthy for its many dovecotes. In the former, a path follows a little stream past enormous, house-size boulders and comes to churches including the Karabaş Kilisesi ("Church of the Black Head") and Yılanlı (Snake) Church, with extensive frescoes that have been badly damaged by graffiti. The two-story Kubbeli (Domed) Church has an unusual rock-cut cylindrical dome, reminiscent of medieval Armenian churches. If you're lucky enough to come on a day when there are no tour groups, you'll practically be on your own. Climb up the cliff face, and you'll be rewarded with incredible views.