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For years Geneva's restaurants dished up menus heavily reliant on French, German, and northern Italian fare. Increasingly, there's a more international spin to the city's dining scene with Japanese, Peruvian, Indian, and Nordic cuisine popping up with fanfare. Tapas-style grazing menus have become as common as those offering fiv
For years Geneva's restaurants dished up menus heavily reliant on French, German, and northern Italian fare. Increasingly, there's a more international spin to the city's dining scene with Japanese, Peruvian, Indian, and Nordic cuisine popping up with fanfare. Tapas-sty
For years Geneva's restaurants dished up menus heavily reliant on French, German, and northern Italian fare. Increasingl
For years Geneva's restaurants dished up menus heavily reliant on French, German, and northern Italian fare. Increasingly, there's a more international spin to the city's dining scene with Japanese, Peruvian, Indian, and Nordic cuisine popping up with fanfare. Tapas-style grazing menus have become as common as those offering five-course meals, and signature restaurants run by well-known chefs as prevalent as casual burger joints.
Although dress-code days are gone, casual elegance is the rule of thumb. Hours for meals generally remain noon to 2 pm and 7 to 9:30 or 10 pm; pubs, bars, and clubs satisfy hungry night owls. And yes, after the stores close on Saturday afternoon, Geneva's city center is virtually dormant—and most, but by no means all, restaurants close. That's because the Genevois spend their weekends eating at country inns and village cafés.
Geneva restaurants (and bars and clubs) are all nonsmoking. Some are now charging for the carafe d'eau (tap water). Since it is not local custom to take small children to better restaurants, amenities (and welcome) may be poor if you arrive with babies in tow. Tipping? Local diners may leave the change as a gesture when they leave, but tipping for exceptional service is up to the customer and is still the exception, not the rule.
The elegant dining room of the Beau-Rivage is dressed in rich creams and browns with the occasional pop of apple green, but with majestic views of the Jet d'Eau and Mont Blanc the terrace steals the show. The menu evolves with the seasons: Michelin-starred chef Dominique Gauthier tweaks the details of his lineup every few months, and dishes may include such delights as frog legs from Vallorbe or langoustines in kadaïf, a crispy, thin Turkish noodle. The vast wine cellar features 40,000 handpicked bottles, including many rare vintages.
13 quai du Mont-Blanc, Geneva, Geneva, 1201, Switzerland
Low ceilings, whitewashed beams, and a worn zinc bar give context to simple regional dishes like cassoulet, émincé de veau (veal strips in a cream sauce), filets de perches, and the namesake pigs' feet (served grilled or stuffed)—the selection varies. The crowd can be noisy, and table service can occasionally be a tad gruff, but locals and tourists keep streaming in, not least because it's one of the few places in town that serves meals straight through from noon to 10 pm. The terrace is great for people-watching.
4 pl. du Bourg-de-Four, Geneva, Geneva, 1204, Switzerland
The "Années Folles" decor—green-and-white tiles, mustard-yellow ceilings, warm wood—and busy waiters in ankle-length aprons channel Paris. Local diners of all stripes come to tuck into hearty portions of choucroute (sauerkraut) with pork and potatoes, vegetable couscous, tartares of beef or fish, and heaping platters of seafood. The dining room expands onto a delightful summer terrace at the foot of the Vieille Ville, and, unusually for Geneva, this place serves late: the kitchen stays open until 11 pm.
8 rue de la Confédération, Geneva, Geneva, 1204, Switzerland
There are four of these appealingly decorated restaurants around town: this one in Vieille Ville, as well as one on Rue Lissignol in Centre Ville Rive Droite, one in Plainpalais, and one in the International Area. The idea is basic: lunch and dinner, you get half a roast chicken, Provençal-style potatoes, and green salad for SF16.90. Sauce for the chicken is optional (and a bit extra); there are a few additional salads as mains in the same price range. Chez Ma Cousine is understandably popular, not only because the food's cheap and good, but also because sitting outside in the Vieille Ville and International Area is great for people-watching.
6 pl. du Bourg-de-Four, Geneva, Geneva, 1204, Switzerland
It's hard to get more Genevois than this: diners reflect the city's mix of locals, tourists, expats, and politicians. The menu specializes in local favorites like filets de perches, longeole sausage, and game in season. The dining room transfers to the sidewalk in summer, and the kitchen closes late for Geneva—at 10 pm.
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