The Pyrenees Restaurants

In the Alta Pyrenees, the cozy stone-wall inns, with their hearty cuisine and comfortable interiors, are a welcome sight after a day's hiking or sightseeing. Often family run and relaxed, they rarely have any kind of dress code and, often, a nourishing meal is brought to a close with a complimentary local chupito (shot) of liqueur, finishing the night off with a satisfying thump. Back down in the main cities, restaurants take inspiration from these traditional methods, but offer a more contemporary style and setting.

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  • 1. Casa Rufus

    $$$$

    Pine walls and floors, red-and-white-check curtains, and flowy white tablecloths furnish this stuck-in-time restaurant in the gray-stone village of Gessa, between Vielha and Salardú. Try the rabbit stuffed with veal and pork, or call ahead to order an off-menu civet of mountain goat or venison. Book ahead as hours are unpredictable.

    Carrer Sant Jaume 8, 25598, Spain
    973-645246

    Known For

    • One of the best restaurants in the area
    • Wide selection of local meat dishes
    • Good stop-off on way to or from the Baqueira ski slopes

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Tues. (seasonal closures after Easter--June)
  • 2. El Tubo Neighborhood

    $$

    El Tubo, the area surrounding the intersection of Calle Estébanes and Calle Libertad, is tapas central. Try to stick to one tapa per bar so you can sample as many spots as possible. El Champi (Calle Libertad 16) isn't much to look at, but this tiny establishment serves killer griddled mushrooms stacked on bread to soak up the garlic-infused oil. Bodegas Almau (Calle Estébanes 10) has shelves heaving with wine bottles and a bar stacked with gargantuan pinchos, which regulars gobble down in the standing-room-only barroom. The vermut con anchoas (a small plate of anchovies and a serving of house vermouth) is classic. La Republicana (Calle Casto Méndez Núñez 38) is a quaint antique space with a wide selection of tapas and migas (fried breadcrumbs) that rival those of the more famous La Miguería (Calle Estébanes 4), laden with garlic, olive oil, crispy chorizo, and optional lacy fried egg. A few steps away, Taberna Doña Casta (Calle Estébanes 6) fries up a lengthy list of inventive croquettes. Sin Nombre (Calle Libertad 7) serves cheffier tapas than the aforementioned and accompanies them with a varied wine list. 

    Calle Estébanes, 50003, Spain

    Known For

    • Variety of tapas bars
    • Lively atmosphere
    • Packed pedestrianized streets
  • 3. Fogony

    $$$$

    Come here for seasonal and contemporary creations from an acclaimed chef and supporter of the slow-food movement, with a prix fixe menu that may include dishes such as pollo a la cocotte con trufa (organic bluefoot chicken with truffle) and solomillo de ternera de los Pirineos con ligero escabeche de verduras y setas (filet of Pyrenean veal with marinated vegetables and mushrooms). This restaurant is one of the best of its kind in the Pyrenees and, if you hit Sort at lunchtime, it makes an excellent reason to stop. The "Kilometer Zero" lunch prix fixe is €45.

    Av. Generalitat 45, 25560, Spain
    973-621225

    Known For

    • Part of the slow food movement
    • Family run
    • Award-winning menu

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and Tues., No dinner Sun.
  • 4. Las Torres

    $$$

    Huesca's top restaurant makes inventive use of local ingredients like wild mushrooms, wild boar, venison, and lamb. The glass-walled kitchen is as inviting as the food that emerges from it, and the wine list is strong on Somontano, Huesca's own D.O. A recent menu included dishes like crispy pork knuckle with revolcona (paprika-garlic) mash and roast turbot with crab cream and a seafood macaron.

    Calle María Auxiliadora 3, Huesca, Aragon, 22002, Spain
    974-228213

    Known For

    • Aragonese with a modern twist
    • Terrific tasting menus
    • Excellent value

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner Sun.–Tues. Closed 2 wks over Easter and last 2 wks of Aug.
  • 5. A'Borda Samper

    $$

    At this wood-beamed barroom, dine on comfort-food tapas and mains like battered zucchini, meatballs bobbing in tomato sauce, fried eggs with sausage, and juicy steaks. 

    Calle Travecinal, Spain
    619-321757

    Known For

    • Affordable country cooking
    • House-made desserts
    • Genial service
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  • 6. Asador Ixarso

    $$$

    Roast goat or lamb cooked over a raised fireplace in the corner of the dining room is why this place is a fine refuge in chilly weather. The revuelto de setas (a scrambled egg dish with a variety of other ingredients) is a classic highland specialty, while the salads are varied and refreshing, especially after a morning or afternoon of skiing, hiking, or climbing. The mixed grill is a house favorite, and the opportunity to try whatever game—venison, wild boar, or partridge—is on the menu should not be missed.

    Calle San Pedro 12, Benasque, Aragon, 22440, Spain
    974-552057

    Known For

    • Traditional chuleton (thick cut bone-in rib steak)
    • Venison, wild boar, and other game
    • Posthike dining

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed mid-Sept.–Nov. and Apr.–mid-June
  • 7. Casa Pardina

    $$$$

    Romantic dining at a reasonable price is the main draw at this restaurant with two fixed-price menus offering dozens of dishes to choose from. The cuisine is distinctly Aragonese with a few modern twists (think local venison stewed with dates, plums, and honey), and the wine hails from nearby Somontano. Every meal starts with a flight of olive oils. The small, inviting dining room with arched stone walls make Pardina a cozy choice in winter, but summer visitors shouldn't miss the outdoor terrace overlooking the Sierra de Guara and San Miguel church.

    Calle Medio, 22145, Spain
    974-318425

    Known For

    • Outdoor dining with sweeping views
    • Set menu only
    • Locally sourced ingredients and local olive oil

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Hours change seasonally, call ahead
  • 8. El Molí

    $$$$

    A picturesque riverside location, knotty pine walls, wood beams, and a rustic prix fixe that highlights regional specialties make this a lovely spot for a meal. There is a ground-floor dining room with large windows that frame a broad sweep of the river and a second, smaller dining room tucked up in the attic.

    Carrèr Sarriulèra 26, 25530, Spain
    973-641718

    Known For

    • Aged Pyrenean beef cooked over coals
    • River views
    • Flame-licked calçots (Catalan green onions) in season

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Wed.
  • 9. El Rebeco

    $$

    In this graceful, rustic building in the upper part of town, the dining rooms are lined with historic photographs of Torla during the 19th and 20th centuries, and in late fall, civets of deer, boar, and mountain goat are the order of the day. In summer, lighter fare and hearty mountain soups restore hikers between treks. The black-marble-and-stone floor and the cadiera—a traditional open fireplace room with an overhead smoke vent—are extraordinary original elements of Pyrenean architecture.

    Calle Fatás 55, Torla, Aragon, 22376, Spain
    974-486068

    Known For

    • Traditional Pyrenean architecture
    • Inviting terrace
    • Slow service so adjust accordingly

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Nov.–Easter
  • 10. Era Mola

    $$$

    This rustic former stable with whitewashed walls serves Aranese dishes with a modern, often French twist. Duck, either stewed with apples or served with carreretes (wild mushrooms from the valley), and roast lamb are favorites, as is foie gras de pato con pistachos con caramelo de Pedro Ximenez (duck foie gras with pistachios and Pedro Ximenez syrup). The wine list is particularly strong on Rioja, Ribera del Duero, and Somontano reds, as well as full-bodied whites, such as Albariños from Rías Baixas and Ruedas from Valladolid.

    Carrer Marrec 14, Vielha, Catalonia, 25530, Spain
    973-642419

    Known For

    • Excellent service
    • Specialty of pigs' trotters stuffed with mushrooms and truffle sauce
    • Traditional cuisine from Vall d'Aran

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed May, June, and Oct. No lunch weekdays Dec.–Apr. (except during Christmas and Easter wks), Reservations essential
  • 11. Fontao

    $$

    Fontao may not look like much, what with its humdrum entrance and and 90's banquet-like dining room, but the kitchen delivers well-executed Aragonés dishes with welcomed Galician flare. Delightful proteins and carbs abound, but don't miss their salad offerings (like the warm escalivada with goat cheese) which are a nice relief from the meaty cuisine of the region.

    Calle Saturnino López Novoa 3, 22005, Spain
    974-220505

    Known For

    • Galician influence
    • Warm, personal service
    • Optional weekday prix fixe menus for €16

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Tues. and Wed.
  • 12. La Carrasca Tapas

    $$

    Coveted mountain views on the sprawling Plaza Mayor terrace are the primary draw to this tapas bar, which serves a solid list of pinchos (two-bite tapas usually on toasted bread) and mains. Don't miss the gildas (skewered olive, anchovy, and spicy pepper), which sit in a monstrous bowl on the bar, along with local river trout and grilled meats. 

    Pl. Mayor, 22330, Spain
    974-500385

    Known For

    • Idyllic patio
    • Grilled local beef cuts
    • Stellar gildas

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closes Tues. and Wed.
  • 13. La Cocina

    $$

    This restaurant has a classy 1970s charm made modern with colorful tiled floors and funky wall art that's surprising for a small town. Start with the olla jacetana, their take on the local stew made with regional white beans, frizzled cabbage, and a fall-apart spiced pork rib. Then try out other seasonal specialties like the savory puff pastry with Swiss chard or the beef tongue salad.

    Calle Zocotín 11, 22700, Spain
    974-361221

    Known For

    • Seasonal game and seafood
    • Creative takes on Aragonés cuisine
    • Hyper-local sourcing

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner Sun., Closed Mon.
  • 14. La Fragua

    $$$

    Tucked behind a huge wooden door just off Calle Major hides a cozy stonewalled asador (grill house). The fired-up barbecue can be viewed from the dining room, setting the scene nicely for locally sourced meat and fish to be cooked over coals. The mains let the produce speak for itself, with an emphasis on grilled items such as entrecôte, rabbit, hake, and monkfish, and there's a selection of seasonal starters that includes fresh salads, wild mushrooms with a poached egg and foie gras, and grilled prawns.

    Calle Gil Bergés 4, Jaca, Aragon, 22700, Spain
    974-360618

    Known For

    • Barbecued meat and fish
    • Very cozy vibe
    • Generous portions

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Tues. No dinner Mon.
  • 15. La Lobera de Martín

    $$$

    With locally cured hams curtaining one side, hunks of beef aging on the other, and critter-filled fish tanks in the back, there's no question what this family-run establishment is cooking up. Sit outside on the terrace overlooking the Plaza de España, or go indoors and enjoy your fire-grilled steak alongside carefully preserved ruins of the ancient city walls. 

    Calle del Coso 35, 50003, Spain
    976-201744

    Known For

    • Best aged chuletón rib steaks in town
    • Ultra-fresh crustaceans
    • Ample local wine and beer offerings
  • 16. Restaurante Ansils

    $$

    This rustic spot in Anciles is ingeniously constructed of glass, wood, and stone and specializes in local Benasqué and Aragonese dishes, such as civet de jabalí and perdiz guisada con setas de temporada (partridge stew with seasonal wild mushrooms). The latter is a perennial house favorite—the meat is cooked to perfection. The restaurant is sometimes closed unexpectedly on weekdays and out of season, so check before you go. Memorable and exuberant holiday meals are served at Christmas and Easter; reserve well in advance.

    Calle General Ferraz 6, Anciles, Benasque, Aragon, 22469, Spain
    974-551150

    Known For

    • Stews and grilled meat
    • Local Aragonese fare
    • Quiet and intimate atmosphere

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed 1st 2 wks in May and last 2 wks in Oct.
  • 17. Tragantúa

    $$

    This rollicking wood-paneled dining room serves surprisingly sublime seafood, cooked a la plancha (on the griddle), al horno (in the oven), or folded into a variety of rice dishes. The beer is fresh and cold, and the house wines, largely from Upper Aragón's envelope-pushing Somontano D.O., are big and bold—and dangerously economical.

    Pl. Santa Marta, Zaragoza, Aragon, 50001, Spain
    976-299174

    Known For

    • Excellent house wines
    • Seafood so fresh you might as well be on the coast
    • Comfy dining room

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed last 2 wks in June and 2nd wk in Jan.

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