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This is Spain’s authentic heartland, bereft of touristy hamburger joints and filled instead with the country’s most traditional tavernas, which attract Spanish foodies from across the country. Some of the most renowned restaurants in this region are small and family-run, while a few new avant-garde spots in Extremadura serve up modern architecture as well as experimental fusion dishes.
In his 30s, Salamanca-born chef Carlos Hernández del Río cut his teeth in such star-studded kitchens as Elkano, Zuberoa, and DiverXO before returning to his roots in 2020 to open this restaurant showcasing the best ingredients, techniques, and wines from his native region—with a few geeky French touches. Expect immaculately prepared appetizers like griddled fresh artichokes with Béarnaise followed by mains including stewed chickpeas with sherry and pork and marinated Tormes river trout, all served in a bright dining room with checkerboard tile floors and designer furniture.
This tavern in Segovia's historic Jewish quarter is owned by La Casa Mudéjar Hospedería hotel and has won awards for the region's best tapas. The extensive menu highlights Segovian specialties like cochinillo, as well as traditional Sephardic Jewish cuisine (though it's not a kosher kitchen), plus a variety of well-executed raciones (shared plates).
Just off the Plaza Mayor, this upscale restaurant has a glass facade, high ceilings, butter-yellow walls, and minimalist art—a welcome relief from the dime-a-dozen Castilian mésones. Savor traditional fare with a twist, such as ibérico pork ravioli and langoustine-stuffed trotters at dinner, or spring for the €20 lunch prix fixe, an absolute steal, served Tuesday through Friday midday.
León is a cold, windy town for much of the year, so it's no surprise that the local version of cocido (boiled dinner) is heartier than usual with mounds of green cabbage, spoonable blood sausage, and some 10 types of meat (chorizo, beef shanks, pork belly, and chicken, to name a few). Sample the city's best rendition at this spartan yet inviting downstairs restaurant outside the historic center—and be sure to bring an appetite.
Bambú is two restaurants in one: there's a jovial basement tapas bar serving gargantuan tapas and beers, and then there's the far more sedate white-tablecloth dining room, whose alta cocina menu is as experimental as it is expensive. Both are worthwhile options; go with the vibe that suits you best.
This family-run white-tablecloth restaurant serves updated Castilian classics in an airy dining room set in a medieval stone house overlooking the old city (ask for an outdoor table when booking). Specialty dishes include Manchegan migas (fried pork and bread crumbs), ajoarriero (pounded potatoes, garlic, bacalao, and olive oil), and veal with potatoes al montón (fried with garlic).
Locals flock to this little tavern for tapas and fat juicy steaks served in the boisterous barroom or white-tablecloth dining area, set in a covered arcaded courtyard. There are 14 hotel rooms available, too—simple, endearingly well-worn arrangements at moderate prices.
This local hangout serves Astorgan dishes that incorporate wild game, foraged mushrooms, and regional meats. For a break from carnivorous Castilian cuisine, tuck into house-made pasta dishes or chickpeas stewed with fresh octopus, a house specialty.
Despite its Mediterranean name, this traditional family-run restaurant serves up Castilian specialties like garlic soup, partridge salad, local river trout, white asparagus, and suckling lamb. The tiny front bar is decorated with black-and-white photos of local bullfighters and is usually packed with locals (as is the back room). The most privileged place to dine is under the awnings on the square.
Botero's old-school storefront draws diners into its cozy but lively tapas bar, with a solid cocktail program and global takes on the traditional, like crispy pig ear tacos with ginger and pickles. The upstairs dining room offers an extended menu and larger dishes, along with two seasonal tasting menus.
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