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Canarian cuisine is based on the delicious rockfish that abound near the coast, and its specialties are worth searching out. A typical meal begins with a hearty stew, such as potaje canario (a stew of vegetables, potatoes, and garbanzo beans), rancho canario (vegetables and meat), and potaje de berros (watercress soup). Canarian
Canarian cuisine is based on the delicious rockfish that abound near the coast, and its specialties are worth searching out. A typical meal begins with a hearty stew, such as potaje canario (a stew of vegetables, potatoes, and garbanzo beans), rancho canario (vegetables
Canarian cuisine is based on the delicious rockfish that abound near the coast, and its specialties are worth searching
Canarian cuisine is based on the delicious rockfish that abound near the coast, and its specialties are worth searching out. A typical meal begins with a hearty stew, such as potaje canario (a stew of vegetables, potatoes, and garbanzo beans), rancho canario (vegetables and meat), and potaje de berros (watercress soup). Canarians eat the porridge-like gofio (made with corn or another grain and milk or broth), though it's hard to find in restaurants. The next course is fresh native fish, the best of which are vieja, cherne, and sama, all firm-flesh white rockfish. Accompanying the fish are papas arrugadas (literally, "wrinkled potatoes"), tiny potatoes native to the Canaries boiled in salty water so that salt crystals form on them as they dry.
Other specialties include cabrito (roast baby goat) and conejo (rabbit), both served in salmorejo, a slightly spicy paprika sauce. Finally, no Canarian meal is complete without a dab of mojo picón, a spicy sauce made with pimientos (red chili peppers), garlic, and tomatoes. Most restaurants serve mojo with each main course, and Canarians heap it liberally on dishes as varied as fish and papas arrugadas. The tamer version is mojo verde,made with cilantro and parsley. Another island specialty is goat cheese, made best in La Palma.
Canarian wines are surprisingly good and varied. Try the young reds and whites on Tenerife, Gran Canaria, and Lanzarote, where wine production is centuries old—the Malmsey wines from Lanzarote were a favorite with Shakespeare's Falstaff. On the stronger side, the Canaries are famous for their dark rum, and several new liqueurs (flavored with coffee, cocoa, or hazelnut) have grown in popularity over the last few years.
Shaded by a splendid ficus that keeps the terraza cool in the midday heat, La Bodega de Santiago is worth going out of your way to visit. The traditional Canarian menu is exquisite, integrating meats and produce from the surrounding farms and complementing dishes with island wines. The rosemary-scented kid goat is memorable, as are the freshly pounded mojos and stewed garbanzos (chickpeas). Call ahead to book a patio table.
Calle Montañas del Fuego 27, Yaiza, Canary Islands, 35570, Spain
On a hill overlooking the port, this small family-run restaurant is all about the catch of the day (try the barracuda if available), served either fried or grilled and always accompanied by papas arrugadas. Arroz caldoso con bogavante (soupy rice with lobster) is another highlight. Try to score a table on the outdoor terrace, where you can watch the boats ply across the harbor; inside, eclectic family artworks are on display.
Calle los Infantes 10, Puerto del Carmen, Canary Islands, 35510, Spain
Of all the seafood restaurants in the tiny hamlet of El Golfo, this harborside standby stands out for its ultrafresh fish and homemade Canarian dishes. Order the parrillada de marisco, or grilled seafood platter, for a sampling of local fish (the barracuda is consistently exceptional), calamari, and fried shellfish, all of which soar to new heights when dunked in cilantro-packed mojo verde.
Av. Marítima 42, Yaiza, Canary Islands, 35570, Spain
Strewn with nautical gewgaws and awash with color, Charco Vivo has indoor and outdoor seating, with tables overlooking the sea or the San Ginés lagoon. House specials include matrimonio (a "marriage" of squid rings and fish) and clams washed down with local wines. If the restaurant is busy, you might get a table just across the street at the sister bar, where the bocadillo de calamares (baguette stuffed with fried squid rings) tops the menu.
Calle Juan de Quesada 7, Arrecife, Canary Islands, 35500, Spain
This must be one of the world's most unusual restaurants. Here, in the heart of Timanfaya National Park, chicken, steaks, and spicy sausages are cooked over a volcanic crater using the earth's natural heat. Be forewarned: the food is nowhere near as epic as the environs, and on chilly days, you might be served cold meat as all barbecue dishes are cooked outdoors, but it's still a worthwhile bucket-list dining experience. El Diablo is situated inside the park beyond the ticket booth, which means you can't eat here without purchasing entry into the park.
Timanfaya National Park, Tinajo, Canary Islands, 35570, Spain
Although it's on a busy access road and inside a drab building, this restaurant is well worth a stop. Menu highlights include playfully plated appetizers and decadent meats. Save room for the locally famous cheesecake.
Av. del Mar 13, Costa Teguise, Canary Islands, 35508, Spain
When you can't look at another plate of fish and taters without moaning—mira, it happens to the best of us in the Canaries—spring for a palate-jolting curry at Everest, whose heady dishes ranging from vindaloo to korma and jalfrezi are probably better than your neighborhood Indian joint's renditions.
Av. de las Playas 41, Puerto del Carmen, Canary Islands, 35510, Spain
A surprisingly varied menu—from bruschette to charcuterie boards to lovingly cooked stews—keeps things interesting at this weekday-only beachy restaurant strewn with crawling plants and twinkly lights. Surrender to your sangría cravings here without worrying about running up a high tab; it's affordable, house-made, and packs a punch.
Av. de las Playas, Puerto del Carmen, Canary Islands, 35510, Spain
928-512318
Known For
Indoor-outdoor dining areas that book up fast
Terrific drinks and dessert
Crowd-pleasing menu with Spanish and international dishes
Creative cooking with Canarian roots is the philosophy behind the dishes at this 10-table restaurant east of the San Ginés lagoon. In the white-tablecloth, blue-walled dining room—or, if you're lucky, on the outdoor terrace—feast on creamy croquetas with a variety of fillings and local fish spooned with nontraditional sauces.
Av. Olof Palme, Arrecife, Canary Islands, 35500, Spain
From your patio table overlooking the harbor, feast on attractively plated modern Spanish fare such as heirloom tomato salmorejo (creamy gazpacho), griddled Iberian pork with sautéed vegetables, and rice with wild mushrooms and foie. The interior dining area is almost as charming with pendant lights and mismatched vintage chairs.
Av. César Manrique 33, Arrecife, Canary Islands, 35500, Spain
Off the tourist track, this no-frills seafood restaurant with stunning sea views is a favorite with locals. The outdoor terrace seems to hover over the sea. The restaurant's popularity makes it a noisy place at peak mealtimes, so if you want a terrace table, book ahead or arrive early.
Calle Bambilote 2, Costa Teguise, Canary Islands, 35509, Spain
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