Fodor's Expert Review La Candela

A block north of Plaza de la Candelaria and on one of Cádiz's narrow pedestrian streets, La Candela is a good place to try local fare with a modern twist. The salmorejo comes baked with pork loin tartare, the pork cheeks are melt-in-the-mouth tender, and several dishes come tempura-style or have South American touches, such as the sea bass ceviche with tiger's milk and mango. There's a good choice of vegetarian dishes. Be sure to try one of the homemade desserts—the cheesecake and chocolate coulant are particularly good.