Golf

Gullane Golf Club. Often overshadowed by Muirfield, Gullane provides an equally authentic links experience, as well as a far-more-effusive welcome than its slightly snooty neighbor along the road. The three championship courses here crisscross Gullane Hill, and all command outstanding views of the Firth of Forth and particularly the beaches of Aberlady Bay. No. 1 is the toughest, but No. 2 and No. 3 offer up equally compelling sport and for significantly lower greens fees. Day tickets can also be purchased, and for No. 3 it's little more than the price of a single round. W. Links Rd., Gullane, East Lothian, EH31 2BB. 01620/842255; www.gullanegolfclub.com. No. 1: £155 weekdays, £180 weekends; No. 2: £62 weekdays, £69 weekends; No. 3: £42 weekdays, £49 weekends. Reservations essential.

Muirfield. Home of the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers and the world's oldest golfing club, Muirfield has a pedigree that few other courses can match. Although this course overlooking the Firth of Forth is considered one of golf's most challenging, players also talk about it being "fair," which means it has no hidden bunkers or sand traps. The club has a well-deserved reputation for being stuffy and traditional; you will be refused entry to the restaurant if you aren't wearing a jacket and tie. In addition, its first female members were only admitted in 2019, 275 years after it first opened (and this was only after threats of losing hosting rights to The Open). Visitors are permitted only on Tuesday and Thursday, and you must apply for a tee time well in advance. Duncur Rd., Gullane, East Lothian, EH31 2EG. 01620/842123; www.muirfield.org.uk. £270 Apr.–Oct., £110 Nov.–Mar..