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More than two decades have passed since the fall of the Soviet Union and with it the days when dining choices in St. Petersburg, or any Russian city for that matter, were limited to traditional, often uninspired, but always inexpensive Russian-style eateries. In fact, dining is among the great pleasures in the city of Peter the
More than two decades have passed since the fall of the Soviet Union and with it the days when dining choices in St. Petersburg, or any Russian city for that matter, were limited to traditional, often uninspired, but always inexpensive Russian-style eateries. In fact,
More than two decades have passed since the fall of the Soviet Union and with it the days when dining choices in St. Pe
More than two decades have passed since the fall of the Soviet Union and with it the days when dining choices in St. Petersburg, or any Russian city for that matter, were limited to traditional, often uninspired, but always inexpensive Russian-style eateries. In fact, dining is among the great pleasures in the city of Peter the Great these days. Yes, you can dine like a tsar, and in just about any other fashion and on any kind of cuisine you prefer. Top chefs have taken over the dining rooms of some of the best hotels—including the Grand Hotel Europe, the Kempinski, and the W—where they serve top-notch food in beautiful settings. You'll also find a growing number of ethnic choices, and even vegetarians, often at a loss to find a meat-free meal in Russian, have some options, too.
Traditionalists need not worry, however. Homey and jovial budget eateries serving quick, substantial, and good meals for less than 250 rubles have mushroomed around the city. Stands selling Russian blini, the hearty Russian cousin of the French crepe, are everywhere, and they make a great pit stop.
Here are a few things to keep in mind. Few restaurants in St. Petersburg have no-smoking sections; in fact, some places have cigarettes listed on the menu. But attitudes are changing and you'll sometimes be offered a seat in a no-smoking section. The dining sections of St. Petersburg Times and St. Petersburg in Your Pocket are worth checking out, for both the restaurant reviews and the ads for tempting business lunch deals, which are typically priced between 300R and 600R.
It's not necessary to plan ahead if you want to land a table in a nice establishment on weekdays, but it's generally a good idea to reserve ahead for weekend dining. Ask your hotel or tour guide for help making a reservation. Most restaurants stop serving food around 11 pm or midnight, although more and more 24-hour cafés are opening.
Dining alcoves that line the mezzanine of a former redbrick textile factory on the Neva are an atmospheric setting for a meal of inspired cuisine accompanied by mellow jazz and lounge music. Portions of expertly prepared sushi and other Asian delights are big enough to share and the cocktails are perfectly calibrated.
78 nab. Sinopskaya, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191124, Russia
A refined restaurant with prerevolutionary flair has a tantalizing menu based on a famous 19th-century cookbook, A Gift to Young Housewives, by Yelena Molokhovets. Cooking is elaborate and highly traditional here, along the lines of baked venison fillet in lingonberry and juniper sauce, pan-fried foie gras with orange-flovored brioche, or Astrakhan sturgeon braised in champagne. Waiters show deference to the guests, serving them in a pleasantly ceremonial, but not genuine, manner. With only six tables, this dining experience is as intimate as it is expensive.
10 ul. Radischeva, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191014, Russia
Nevsky prospekt is St. Petersburg's version of a Parisian boulevard, and this comfortable, Parisian-style bistro fits right in. From the first bite of baguette you'll be transported, and the seasonably changing menu is full of soups, mussels, quiches, and other bistro favorites. With fluffy omelets, buttery croissants, and good strong coffee, the breakfast here is one of the best in the city.
95 Nevsky pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191036, Russia
A youngish bohemian crowd flocks to this café furnished in pastel greens and creams and famous for its airy meringues—the Bizet, with chopped almonds and garnished with fresh raspberries, is especially popular. Some good soups and about a dozen salads are also available.
41 ul. Zhukovskogo, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191014, Russia
This haven for vegetarians and those seeking lighter dishes serves excellent soups, pastas, sandwiches, and dips. The airy dining room, done in shades of green, has an abundance of potted plants and is nonsmoking; the only alcohol permitted is beer.
7 ul. Pestelya, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191028, Russia
Politicians, businesspeople, and television personalities are regulars at one of the city's busiest and most fashionable venues, where the two large, charmingly cluttered dining rooms are almost always packed. Whether it's a straightforward lasagna or more elegant fare, such as risotto with cuttlefish ink, everything the Italian chef sends out of the kitchen is delicious. The wine list is extensive.
47 Suvorovsky pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191144, Russia
Settle into one of the plush booths to enjoy simple Italian fare in friendly and comfortable surroundings. The pastas and pizzas are authentically delicious, as are the more ambitious meat and fish choices. A 15 percent discount for weekday dining between noon and 5 pm makes a meal here, reasonably priced at any time, a real bargain.
23 ul. Rubinshteina, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191002, Russia
An unpretentious dining room decorated with Italian knickknacks and bare wooden tables is a good choice for an inexpensive lunch or post-theater dinner of pasta and salad (it's open until midnight). For an Italian shopping experience, stop at the retail counter to stock up on imported cheeses, cold meats, and coffees.
15 ul. Vosstaniya, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191036, Russia
The city's most authentic Thai cuisine is served in modern black-and-white surroundings with a glass-enclosed terrace on the street that's great for people watching. You can follow up a meal of spring rolls and Bangkok duck with another authentically Thai experience—the building houses a well-known massage spa of the same name.
12 ul. Rubinshteina, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191025, Russia
A glass of kompot, an infusion of stewed fruit, is served as a welcome drink at this funky café where two dining rooms are furnished with vintage lamps, surrealist paintings, and bizarre curio items. The menu focuses on light fare—hummus, falafels, curries, and sandwiches—and breakfast is available at any hour. On weekdays between noon and 4 pm, you get two meals for the price of one.
10 ul. Zhukovskogo, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191014, Russia
At the spacious branch of this famed blini chain, the signature dish is cooked right in front of you. New flavors arrive every few months, and other Russian dishes, such as pelmeni and a choice of soups, are also available.
93 Nevsky pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191036, Russia
This tiny café (just six tables) is hugely popular with the local Italian community, who reserve well in advance for weekends and evenings. The draw is the best Italian sorbet and gelato in St. Petersburg, with 20 different flavors that rotate every day. The chocolate gelato—bittersweet, smooth, and dizzyingly rich—is renowned. Soups, pastas, and snacks are also served.
107 Nevsky pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191036, Russia
812-717--0881
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Rate Includes: No credit cards, Reservations essential
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