Fodor's Expert Review Triton
Editor's Note: This location is no longer in operation.
This restaurant's clientele is overwhelmingly made up of knowledgeable seafood-lovers. They come in part because of the fame of the chef, Vyacheslav Dmitriev, formerly of Tbiliso. Favorite dishes include sturgeon chateaubriand with braised leeks and creamy morel mushrooms; lobster tail with a spicy Malaysian sambal sauce; and barramundi (sea perch) pavé, a kind of mousse accompanied by ratatouille and a crab sauce with lavender petals. The marine theme is reflected artfully in the sophisticated formal dining hall, which has waterfalls and large aquarium-like windows framed by sea horses. Even the menus are shell-shaped, and the plates are shaped like clams. Triton has an extensive wine list and a knowledgeable sommelier. It's also got a winning location next to the Bolshoi Drama Theater.
