St. Petersburg Restaurants

More than two decades have passed since the fall of the Soviet Union and with it the days when dining choices in St. Petersburg, or any Russian city for that matter, were limited to traditional, often uninspired, but always inexpensive Russian-style eateries. In fact, dining is among the great pleasures in the city of Peter the Great these days. Yes, you can dine like a tsar, and in just about any other fashion and on any kind of cuisine you prefer. Top chefs have taken over the dining rooms of some of the best hotels—including the Grand Hotel Europe, the Kempinski, and the W—where they serve top-notch food in beautiful settings. You'll also find a growing number of ethnic choices, and even vegetarians, often at a loss to find a meat-free meal in Russian, have some options, too.

Traditionalists need not worry, however. Homey and jovial budget eateries serving quick, substantial, and good meals for less than 250 rubles have mushroomed around the city. Stands selling Russian blini, the hearty Russian cousin of the French crepe, are everywhere, and they make a great pit stop.

Here are a few things to keep in mind. Few restaurants in St. Petersburg have no-smoking sections; in fact, some places have cigarettes listed on the menu. But attitudes are changing and you'll sometimes be offered a seat in a no-smoking section. The dining sections of St. Petersburg Times and St. Petersburg in Your Pocket are worth checking out, for both the restaurant reviews and the ads for tempting business lunch deals, which are typically priced between 300R and 600R.

It's not necessary to plan ahead if you want to land a table in a nice establishment on weekdays, but it's generally a good idea to reserve ahead for weekend dining. Ask your hotel or tour guide for help making a reservation. Most restaurants stop serving food around 11 pm or midnight, although more and more 24-hour cafés are opening.

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  • 1. Abrikosov

    $$ | City Center

    At this soothing place to take a break with a good view of Nevsky prospekt, you can enjoy coffee, ice cream, and scrumptious cakes, or a whole range of traditional Russian and European dishes. Out of the Russian menu try borscht (beetroot soup) with sour cream or pickled herring and mushrooms. In summer Abrikosov offers an open terrace.

    40 Nevsky pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191011, Russia
    812-312--2457
  • 2. Bistro Garçon

    $$ | Vladimirskaya

    Nevsky prospekt is St. Petersburg's version of a Parisian boulevard, and this comfortable, Parisian-style bistro fits right in. From the first bite of baguette you'll be transported, and the seasonably changing menu is full of soups, mussels, quiches, and other bistro favorites. With fluffy omelets, buttery croissants, and good strong coffee, the breakfast here is one of the best in the city.

    95 Nevsky pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191036, Russia
    812-717--2467

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 3. Bizet

    $$ | Vladimirskaya

    A youngish bohemian crowd flocks to this café furnished in pastel greens and creams and famous for its airy meringues—the Bizet, with chopped almonds and garnished with fresh raspberries, is especially popular. Some good soups and about a dozen salads are also available.

    41 ul. Zhukovskogo, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191014, Russia
    812-702--7738

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 4. Caravan

    $$ | Admiralteisky

    The stuffed camel, Turkish carpets, and sizzling kebabs prepared in the middle of the room create an exotic ambiance in which to enjoy what many aficionados consider to be the best Middle Eastern food in St. Petersburg. Whatever the variety of kebab you choose, begin a meal with kutab, a lightly fried pocket of dough filled with shrimp, pumpkin, or cheese.

    46 Voznesensky pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190068, Russia
    812-571--2880

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 5. Coffeehouse

    $$ | City Center

    Starbucks clones have sprung up on almost every corner in St. Petersburg, and many belong to the Coffeehouse chain. At any you can grab a good and inexpensive lunch with soup, salad, and coffee or tea, and a full range of reasonably well-made coffee drink is available.

    5 Nevskiy Pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191186, Russia
    812-363--3140

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
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  • 6. Freeman's

    $$ | City Center

    Behind an unassuming facade down a quiet side street off Nevsky prospekt is this warm and comforting room that might transport you to Italy or the South of France, as will the cuisine. Updated versions of classic Mediterranean dishes include some inventive, simply prepared fish dishes, such as tuna with pesto and scallops with figs. The menu varies, as the chef selects from what's freshest at the market.

    8 ul. Kazanskaya, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191186, Russia
    812-312--0540
  • 7. Idiot

    $$ | City Center

    A favorite among St. Petersburg expatriates, this restaurant serves hearty vegetarian Russian food, good seafood, and nice Italian coffee. The background music leans heavily on Charles Aznavour, Louis Armstrong, and Ella Fitzgerald. Add occasional art exhibits, chess and backgammon sets, and a small library, and you have several excuses to linger.

    82 nab. Moika, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190000, Russia
    812-946--5173-information
  • 8. Jean-Jacques

    $$ | Petrograd Side

    Mirrored walls, red and mahogany furnishings, and tables topped with paper provide an authentic bistro ambience, a perfect setting for a classic French meal of onion soup, steak and bordelaise sauce, and crème brûlée. Fine wines are available by the glass, and attentive servers will help you with your choice. Seating is limited to only 25 people, so it's advisable to come early for dinner or take advantage of the excellent lunch, served from noon to 4 pm.

    2/54 ul. Gatchinskaya, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 197198, Russia
    812-232--9981

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 9. LeChaim

    $$ | Admiralteisky

    The kosher cuisine, served in the spacious basement of St. Petersburg's Great Choral Synagogue, is as popular with a nonreligious crowd as it is with dietary adherents. Such favorites as chicken schnitzel and trout fillet wrapped in grape leaves are served in generous portions and at very reasonable prices. Keep in mind that the restaurant can be difficult to find, since the doorway is discreetly marked, and is often booked for weddings and other events that take place in the synagogue, so call ahead.

    2 Lermontovsky pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190121, Russia
    812-572--5616

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No credit cards, Closed Sat.
  • 10. Marcelli's

    $$ | Vladimirskaya

    An unpretentious dining room decorated with Italian knickknacks and bare wooden tables is a good choice for an inexpensive lunch or post-theater dinner of pasta and salad (it's open until midnight). For an Italian shopping experience, stop at the retail counter to stock up on imported cheeses, cold meats, and coffees.

    15 ul. Vosstaniya, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191036, Russia
    812-986--9111

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 11. Pushka Inn

    $$ | City Center

    The extensive menu includes blini (pancakes) with caviar, homemade pelmeni (meat dumplings), borscht, and vareniki (a Ukrainian dish—dumplings filled with all kinds of stuffing, such as cabbage, cherries, and mushrooms). The name is both a play on Pushkin's name and the Russian word for cannon—which explains the military-theme paintings and the miniature cannon near the entrance.

    14 nab. Moika, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191186, Russia
    812-314--0663-Table Reservation
  • 12. Russkaya Rybalka

    $$ | Kirov Islands

    The gimmick at "Russian Fishing" is that you catch your own dinner. It's set in a charming wooden house overlooking a lake full of trout and beluga sturgeon. Tackle, bait, and expert advice are provided, and your catch is prepared before you on the grill. The place even operates during winter when the lake is frozen solid—the restaurant breaks up the ice so sections are still fishable. There are several other options on the menu as well, including a baked eggplant dish that is memorable.

    11 Yuzhnaya doroga, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 197110, Russia
    812-633--0200

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No credit cards
  • 13. Tandoor

    $$ | City Center

    Waiters dressed in traditional costumes and soft embroidered shoes move soundlessly in this comfortable and quiet little place across the street from St. Isaac's Cathedral. Reliable Indian classics such as those served here were hard to find in St. Petersburg before the downfall of the USSR. A generous business lunch is an especially good deal and includes a vegetarian option.

    10 Admiralteysky pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190000, Russia
    812-312--3886

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 14. Tbiliso

    $$ | Petrograd Side

    A lot of thought was put into creating this busy and authentic Georgian restaurant, which evokes the atmosphere of old Tbilisi, the capital of Russia's southern neighbor. There may be political tensions between the nations these days, but Russians' love affair with Georgian cuisine, from lobio (bean salad) and grilled meat and fish shashlyks (shish kebabs) to lavash (flat bread) and khatchapuri (cheese-filled bread), remains passionate. Tbiliso satisfies this appetite and then some, with servers in national costume and a Georgian choir to serenade diners. If you visit only one Georgian restaurant in St. Petersburg, make it this one.

    10 ul. Sytninskaya, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 197101, Russia
    812-232--9391

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 15. Teplo

    $$ | Admiralteisky

    The name means "warmth" in Russian and this popular spot does indeed make guests feel warm all over, with a country house atmosphere (a fire blazes and the main dining room is lined with bookshelves) and menu laden with cozy, expertly made classics, such as marinated beets, salted herring, meat pies, and borscht. The signature dish is a warm salad of juicy chicken livers and crispy strips of bacon surrounded by salad leaves, cherry tomatoes, and herby croutons. The three-course-plus-a-drink business lunch is an excellent value, and accordingly popular.

    45 ul. Bolshaya Morskaya, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190000, Russia
    812-570--1974

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted, Reservations essential
  • 16. Teremok

    $$ | City Center

    Don't be put off by the spartan setting: the owners penny-pinch only on furnishings and presentation. Cooked in front of your eyes, their famous blinis are deservedly considered to be the best in town. Stuffed with mushrooms, ham, pork, grilled chicken, cream, honey, and a dozen other fillings, they're rich in flavor and never over- or underdone, always tasting just as your Russian mom might have made them. A single blini is so rich and hefty that it may leave you stuffed, so be conservative when you order. Teremok also operates a chain of 137 venues, including 41 street stands.

    60 Nevsky pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191011, Russia
    812-277--0881

    Known For

    • Blini (definitely the best in town), always cooked to order
    • Traditional Russian borscht and kasha
    • Lots of associated cafes and kiosks if you can't make it to the original
  • 17. Via dell'Oliva

    $$ | City Center

    Feta cheese delivered directly from Greece transports you directly to sunnier climes, as does much else about this stone and terra-cotta dining room that seems like the banquet hall of an Italian villa. Assorted souvlaki provide a taste of the Greek isles, while spaghetti carbonara and juicy steaks coud emerge from a trattoria kitchen in Florence. The servers are also international, and multilingual, and live folk music from many countries plays on most nights.

    31 ul. Bolshaya Morskaya, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190000, Russia
    812-314--6563

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 18. Vostochny Ugolok

    $$ | City Center

    The lamb, herbs, and other ingredients here are laudably fresh, and flown in several times a week from Baku, Azerbaijan. It is easy to get lost in the long menu, but much harder to be disappointed in your choice. Juicy kebabs, chops, and khatchapuri (cheese bread) are served in vast portions—a bowl of soup is a meal in itself. Not as appetizing is the music blaring in the three dining rooms, decorated with oriental carpets, pillows, and pottery.

    52 ul. Gorokhovaya, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191180, Russia
    812-407--5747

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted

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