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More than two decades have passed since the fall of the Soviet Union and with it the days when dining choices in St. Petersburg, or any Russian city for that matter, were limited to traditional, often uninspired, but always inexpensive Russian-style eateries. In fact, dining is among the great pleasures in the city of Peter the
More than two decades have passed since the fall of the Soviet Union and with it the days when dining choices in St. Petersburg, or any Russian city for that matter, were limited to traditional, often uninspired, but always inexpensive Russian-style eateries. In fact,
More than two decades have passed since the fall of the Soviet Union and with it the days when dining choices in St. Pe
More than two decades have passed since the fall of the Soviet Union and with it the days when dining choices in St. Petersburg, or any Russian city for that matter, were limited to traditional, often uninspired, but always inexpensive Russian-style eateries. In fact, dining is among the great pleasures in the city of Peter the Great these days. Yes, you can dine like a tsar, and in just about any other fashion and on any kind of cuisine you prefer. Top chefs have taken over the dining rooms of some of the best hotels—including the Grand Hotel Europe, the Kempinski, and the W—where they serve top-notch food in beautiful settings. You'll also find a growing number of ethnic choices, and even vegetarians, often at a loss to find a meat-free meal in Russian, have some options, too.
Traditionalists need not worry, however. Homey and jovial budget eateries serving quick, substantial, and good meals for less than 250 rubles have mushroomed around the city. Stands selling Russian blini, the hearty Russian cousin of the French crepe, are everywhere, and they make a great pit stop.
Here are a few things to keep in mind. Few restaurants in St. Petersburg have no-smoking sections; in fact, some places have cigarettes listed on the menu. But attitudes are changing and you'll sometimes be offered a seat in a no-smoking section. The dining sections of St. Petersburg Times and St. Petersburg in Your Pocket are worth checking out, for both the restaurant reviews and the ads for tempting business lunch deals, which are typically priced between 300R and 600R.
It's not necessary to plan ahead if you want to land a table in a nice establishment on weekdays, but it's generally a good idea to reserve ahead for weekend dining. Ask your hotel or tour guide for help making a reservation. Most restaurants stop serving food around 11 pm or midnight, although more and more 24-hour cafés are opening.
Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse's Russian outpost has shaken up the city's dining scene with its haute-cuisine interpretation of French classics. Using the best and freshest local produce—as well as specialty items flown in from abroad—the kitchen prepares satisfying and deceptively straightforward variations of such classics as oven-baked duck breast and seared beef fillet. Like the menu, the dining room manages to be ultra-fashionable while staying relaxed and comfortable at the same time.
6 Voznesensky pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190000, Russia
The name evokes the last days of Imperial Russia, and the era is celebrated in low-key, comfortably elegant surroundings where a menu offers a huge selection of Russian favorites served in huge portions. The emphasis is on game and fish; an excellent and traditional meal might begin with mushroom soup or borscht, followed by sturgeon or salmon.
13/2 Voznesensky pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190000, Russia
The stuffed camel, Turkish carpets, and sizzling kebabs prepared in the middle of the room create an exotic ambiance in which to enjoy what many aficionados consider to be the best Middle Eastern food in St. Petersburg. Whatever the variety of kebab you choose, begin a meal with kutab, a lightly fried pocket of dough filled with shrimp, pumpkin, or cheese.
46 Voznesensky pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190068, Russia
Wine lovers can choose from a huge list of French and Italian vintages, then select a bottle from the adjacent shop. Or, they can settle into the sleek and fashionably eclectic surroundings for an inventive and flavorful meal in which duck with rosemary and honey might be accompanied by black rice with a cappuccino of Mediterranean herbs and an extremely elegant take on borscht.
52 nab. Reki Fontanki, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191002, Russia
A favorite among St. Petersburg expatriates, this restaurant serves hearty vegetarian Russian food, good seafood, and nice Italian coffee. The background music leans heavily on Charles Aznavour, Louis Armstrong, and Ella Fitzgerald. Add occasional art exhibits, chess and backgammon sets, and a small library, and you have several excuses to linger.
82 nab. Moika, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190000, Russia
The kosher cuisine, served in the spacious basement of St. Petersburg's Great Choral Synagogue, is as popular with a nonreligious crowd as it is with dietary adherents. Such favorites as chicken schnitzel and trout fillet wrapped in grape leaves are served in generous portions and at very reasonable prices. Keep in mind that the restaurant can be difficult to find, since the doorway is discreetly marked, and is often booked for weddings and other events that take place in the synagogue, so call ahead.
2 Lermontovsky pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190121, Russia
Discreet and genteel, this spacious one-room venue could come straight out of one of Chekhov's stories and is the perfect place to try various vodkas and home-brewed liqueurs. Alcoholic sampling requires sustenance, and a menu offers many traditional choices, with an emphasis on fish dishes. A starter group platter features four types of smoked fish—including omul (cisco, a kind of whitefish) from Lake Baikal and sig, a whitefish from Russia's far east. A memorable main course is fried pike-perch from Lake Ladoga, served with mashed potatoes.
4 ul. Konnogvardeisky bulvar, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190000, Russia
Ruby red chandeliers and modern interpretations of Russian folkloric motifs provide a perfect prelude to a night at the nearby Marrinsky Theatre. The menu, however, is as down to earth as the surroundings are fanciful, focusing on such popular Russian classics as borscht, breaded veal cutlets, and beef Stroganoff. The wine list is particularly well chosen.
2 ul. Glinka, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190000, Russia
This casual eatery combines the best of the old and new: the fashionable surroundings are comfortable, clean, and spacious, while the kitchen turns out an old favorite—fresh-baked traditional pies. Choose from sweet or savory fillings that make the most of seasonal fruit, beef, salmon, cabbage, mushrooms, and rabbit. The salmon is a dream, and the apricot is a suitable follow-up, but all the choices are extremely good. If you have a hard time finding a seat at this popular spot, try the branch just down the street at number 33.
11 Nevskiy Prospect, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191186, Russia
The name means "warmth" in Russian and this popular spot does indeed make guests feel warm all over, with a country house atmosphere (a fire blazes and the main dining room is lined with bookshelves) and menu laden with cozy, expertly made classics, such as marinated beets, salted herring, meat pies, and borscht. The signature dish is a warm salad of juicy chicken livers and crispy strips of bacon surrounded by salad leaves, cherry tomatoes, and herby croutons. The three-course-plus-a-drink business lunch is an excellent value, and accordingly popular.
45 ul. Bolshaya Morskaya, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190000, Russia
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