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Lisbon's dining scene has evolved dramatically in recent years to include any number of high-end dining opportunities, but amid the international fare, Michelin-starred restaurants, and molecular gastronomy, the city's simplest and most traditional restaurants still do a roaring trade. Meals generally include three courses, a dr
Lisbon's dining scene has evolved dramatically in recent years to include any number of high-end dining opportunities, but amid the international fare, Michelin-starred restaurants, and molecular gastronomy, the city's simplest and most traditional restaurants still do
Lisbon's dining scene has evolved dramatically in recent years to include any number of high-end dining opportunities, b
Lisbon's dining scene has evolved dramatically in recent years to include any number of high-end dining opportunities, but amid the international fare, Michelin-starred restaurants, and molecular gastronomy, the city's simplest and most traditional restaurants still do a roaring trade. Meals generally include three courses, a drink, and coffee. Many restaurants have an ementa turistica (tourist menu), a set-price meal, most often served at lunchtime. Note that you'll be charged a couple of euros if you eat any of the couvert items—typically appetizers such as bread and butter, olives, and the like—that are brought to your table without being ordered.
Lisbon's restaurants usually serve lunch from noon or 12:30 until 3 and dinner from 7:30 until 11; many establishments are closed Sunday or Monday. Inexpensive restaurants typically don't accept reservations. In the traditional cervejarias (beer-hall restaurants), which frequently have huge dining rooms, you'll probably have to wait for a table, but usually not more than 10 minutes. In the Bairro Alto, many of the reasonably priced tascas (taverns) are on the small side: if you can't grab a table, you're probably better off moving on to the next place. Throughout Lisbon, dress for meals is usually casual, but exceptions are noted below.
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Chiado and Bairro Alto
Avenida da Liberdade, Príncipe Real, and Restauradores
The unpretentious bar-restaurant at trendy 1908 Lisboa Hotel is as stylish as the design hotel itself. The space has been tastefully designed to make the most of its historical building with a striking tiled floor, high ceilings, an exposed metal staircase, and windows on three sides. A pleasant place for brunch, lunch, or dinner, the eclectic menu features seafood, meat, and vegetarian options, many with Asian influences. There's a dedicated kids' menu, too.
Largo do Intendente Pina Manique 4, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1100-285, Portugal
This bakery specializes in pastéis de nata: delicious, warm custard pastries sprinkled with cinnamon and powdered sugar. Although these sweet treats are ubiquitous in Portugal, the version here (made from a secret recipe since 1837) is the most celebrated. They're so good that lines snake out of the door of this traditional blue-and-white-tiled establishment.
Rua de Belém 84–92, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1300-085, Portugal
In an alley between Praça dos Restauradores and Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, this eatery known locally as Rei dos Frangos (King of Chickens) specializes in spit-roasted chicken served with a home-made peri-peri sauce that locals swear is the best in the city. One chicken easily serves two hungry diners, but leave room for the famously crispy fries.
Travessa de Santo Antão 11--12, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1150-312, Portugal
The largest of Cacilhas's many marisqueiras (traditional seafood restaurants), Cabrinha has been doing a roaring business among locals and out-of-towners since 1978. Crustaceans of all shapes and sizes are priced by weight, while steaks, grilled fish, and the famous seafood stew will satisfy a hearty appetite without blowing the budget.
Beco Bom Sucesso 4, Cacilhas, Setúbal, 2800-267, Portugal
The Portuguese take their canned fish seriously. Find out what all the fuss is about at this funky restaurant where the chefs incorporate canned goods into all manner of dishes—it sounds gimmicky, but the results are delicious.
Praça do Comércio 82--83, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1100-148, Portugal
The inspiration for this restaurant's food comes from Argentina, so expect a beef-heavy menu that has long made it a favorite among Lisbon’s carnivores. You’ll also find fish dishes borrowed from traditional Portuguese cuisine, and a couple of vegetarian options, too.
Rua D. Pedro V 18–20, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1250-094, Portugal
For cod dishes prepared with great pride, come to this restaurant that's been specializing in all things bacalhau since 1976. Chef and owner António Pereira learned to cook in the former Portuguese colony of Mozambique, so expect a few Mozambican dishes alongside excellent renderings of Portuguese favorites like bacalhau à brás (creamy shredded cod with egg and potatoes).
Av. Conde Valbom 71A, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1050-067, Portugal
Crustaceans of every shape and size are the specialty at this well-regarded restaurant, but the fish dishes are also delicious. The atmosphere is relaxed, the chefs take their work seriously, and the restaurant attracts locals in droves.
Rua Bartolomeu Dias 112, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1400-031, Portugal
On a street lined with tourist traps, O Churrasco is the local favorite and deservedly so. The paneled dining room serves top-notch peri peri chicken, sizzling steaks, and perfectly grilled fish.
Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 83–85, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1150-266, Portugal
The oldest cervejaria (relaxed dining and drinking spot) in the region, O Farol has been serving cold beer, rich seafood stews, and delicious shellfish since 1890. The brightly lit space feels more functional than fashionable, but the crowds eating here are a testament to the outstanding seafood, and the sunset views over the river to Lisbon are magical.
Largo Alfredo Dinis 1, Cacilhas, Setúbal, 2800-252, Portugal
Although the name translates as "Bread Bread Cheese Cheese," this bustling place serves much more than these two staples. Expect lines out the door as hungry sightseers and locals line up to take their pick from a huge variety of sandwiches, salads, falafel, and wraps.
Rua de Belém 126, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1300-086, Portugal
For some of the best ice cream and sorbets in town, drop into this branch of a family-run chain founded in 1949. New flavors are introduced regularly, but all stick to the tradition of using only fresh fruits and all-natural ingredients.
Rua do Carmo 88, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1200-093, Portugal
An unpretentious traditional tasca (tavern) hidden among Bairro Alto’s many noisy cocktail bars and tourist traps, Tasca do Manel serves hearty portions of excellent Portuguese food at fair prices. The fish soup and duck rice are house specialties, as are the homemade wine and the potent bagaço (Portuguese grappa) that usually rounds off a meal here.
Rua da Barroca 24, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1200-050, Portugal
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