Fodor's Expert Review Adega do Isaias

Hidden away on a narrow side street a few minutes from the main square, this family-run restaurant is the best place in town for hearty, no-nonsense grilled meats. The front part of the former wine cellar is a rustic brick bar with a pork leg mounted on the counter, and a charcoal grill nestled in the front window alcove. Walk past the bar area across a sloping, concrete floor into a cozy dining room, lined with huge terra-cotta wine jugs. The furnishings are basic—benches at planked tables—and you can expect the service to be casual, at best. Specialties include burras (pork chin), migas with wild asparagus, and sopa de cação, or dogfish soup, a hearty dish made with a bony local fish which is sometimes also called baby shark.