Fodor's Expert Review Berlengas

The harbor at Peniche is the jumping-off point for excursions to the Berlengas Archipelago: six islets that are a nesting place for many migratory birds and a favorite spot for anglers and divers. Berlenga Grande, the largest of the group, is the site of a pretty lighthouse and the Forte de São João Baptista, a 17th-century fortress built to defend the area from pirates. There are trails around the island, including through caves. You can visit the islands by boat but, under a system introduced in 2022 to limit visitor numbers to 550 per day, you first need a €3 permit. Register on the website  berlengaspass.icnf.pt to buy a permit (several hours in advance, as it takes some time to be delivered). Boats also fill up quickly in high season, so before buying the permit, first check availability with ferry company Viamar ( viamar-berlenga.com), which runs the 185-seat Cabo Avelar Pessoa once or twice a day from mid-May through September, or with one of the other companies that organize private trips year-round. Some companies are allowed to register you for the permit themselves. It's a notoriously choppy crossing, so you may want to take something for motion sickness. The main island has a visitor center, a restaurant and bar, and a small guesthouse; it is also possible to camp or even stay in the fortress if you book ahead.