Estremadura and the Ribatejo Restaurants

We’ve compiled the best of the best in Estremadura and the Ribatejo - browse our top choices for Restaurants during your stay.

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  • 1. Burro Velho

    $

    The "Old Donkey" may be a relative newcomer to downtown Batalha, but its recipe of traditional dishes and an informal, modern ambience has won over locals and visitors alike. All ingredients are fresh and organic when possible, and there is a range of house-made breads, as well as an excellent choice of wines. Try any of the fresh fish dishes or a hearty meat option. 

    Rua Nossa Sra. Do Caminho, Batalha, Leiria, 2440-121, Portugal
    244 764 174

    Known For

    • Lively, informal atmosphere
    • Top-quality ingredients
    • Fresh fish and hearty meat dishes

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun.
  • 2. Chico Elias

    $$

    This charmingly rustic restaurant just outside Tomar owes its fame to chef Maria do Céu's creativity—and the huge portions, which are enough for two. At lunch on weekends there are usually delicious hearty dishes such as cabrito assado (roast kid) and cachola (pork rib and loin, served with cabbage). Most of the main dishes take time to prepare in the wood-burning oven, and even regulars must book ahead. For dessert, there are fluffy fatias de Tomar and a delicious leite de creme.

    Rua Principal 70, Tomar, Santarém, 2300–302, Portugal
    249 311 067

    Known For

    • Favorite dishes include feijoada de caracoís (bean stew with snails)
    • Local families flock to this longtime favorite
    • Laid-back atmosphere

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations essential
  • 3. Esplanada Furnas

    $$$

    Perched on rocks overlooking the open ocean, on the site of a former shellfish nursery, this fashionable restaurant offers some of the best seafood in the area. As you'd expect, the day's menu depends on the sea's bounty, but it might have salmonete (red mullet), pregado (turbot), robalo (sea bass), or linguado (sole). Alternatively, opt for a cataplana of fish stew for two, or even a juicy steak. The starters are worth sampling, too, such as octopus salad or a dish of fresh amêijoas (clams).

    Rua das Furnas 2, Ericeira, Lisbon, 2655–288, Portugal
    261 864 870

    Known For

    • The place has its own own vinho verde
    • More formal feel during the week
    • Family-friendly atmosphere
  • 4. Ó Balcão

    $$

    Don't be fooled by the simple green-and-white tiled interior: this former tavern inspires inventive cooking by Chef Rodrigo Castelo, who uses often overlooked local ingredients to craft sumptuous and surprising dishes. The à la carte menu is a good value, with updated traditional fare such as oxtail gratin and chargrilled octopus, but it's worth splashing out on a tasting menu (€75, plus €45 for wine pairing). One features more than a dozen different species of fish from the Tagus; the other showcases both fish and locally sourced meats. All bread, olive oil and charcuterie is made in-house, along with an amazing range of pungent pickles and fermented foods that are used to bring extra flavor to the chef's creations. 

    Rua Pedro de Santarém 73, Santarém, Santarém, 2000-223, Portugal
    243 055 883

    Known For

    • Tasting menus
    • Delicious combinations
    • Unusual but inventive use of local ingredients
  • 5. O Casarão

    $$

    About 5 km (3 miles) south of Leiria, O Casarão occupies a large country house surrounded by gardens where you may take an aperitif before your meal. Try the ensopado de peixe (fish stew) or, if there are two of you, maybe split an espedata de carne com gambas (skewers of beef and shrimp), which comes with migas de nabiça (fried bread crumbs and turnip tops).

    Estrada da Maceira 10, Azoia, Lisbon, 2400–823, Portugal
    244 871 080

    Known For

    • Service and presentation are flawless without being pretentious
    • Several ancient recipes from nearby monasteries
    • Amazing homemade desserts
  • Recommended Fodor’s Video

  • 6. O Toucinho

    $

    This is Almeirim's most popular traditional restaurant, thanks to its excellent grilled meats—lamb and pork as well as steak—and of course the sopa da pedra, which O Toucinho claims to have reinvented back in the 1960s. It is run by a former forcado (one of the bullfighters who literally grab the animal by the horns)—as the bull's heads and bullfight posters will remind you.

    Rua de Timor 2, Almeirim, Santarém, 2080–095, Portugal
    243 592 237

    Known For

    • Check out the kitchen, where the rustic bread is made all day long
    • Desserts such as arroz doce are cooked in a wood-burning oven
    • Your choice of four handsome dining rooms

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Thurs., last 2 wks June and 1st wk Aug.
  • 7. Sabores d'Itália

    $$$

    Behind a vintage tiled facade is a widely acclaimed restaurant that has long been among the country's most popular destinations for Italian food. Everything—the pasta, bread, ice cream—is homemade and beautifully presented and served by the owner, Norberto Marcelino, and his wife. Delicious main dishes include shrimp pansotti with a dill sauce, and breast of duck with port wine sauce and clementines. For desserts there is the ever-popular raspberry gratin with lemon sorbet, sinfonia de pêra Rocha (featuring a local pear variety, three ways), and fig crêpe with Moscatel ice cream.

    Praça 5 de Outubro 40, Caldas da Rainha, Leiria, 2500–111, Portugal
    262 845 600

    Known For

    • Roast fig with goat cheese is among mouthwatering starters
    • 500-plus wines include local and Italian varietals
    • Weekday set lunch menu is great value

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and 1 wk in Nov. No lunch Tues.
  • 8. Tasca do Joel

    $$

    Tucked away on a side street far from the touristy seafront, this tavern attracts diners from far and wide with delicious fresh fish and meat dishes cooked in its wood-burning oven. There are changing daily specials, but regular dishes include bacalhau à tasca (fried codfish with onions and potatoes) and rice-stuffed cuttlefish.

    Rua do Lapadusso 73, Peniche, Leiria, 2520–370, Portugal
    262 782 945

    Known For

    • Kids' menu with simpler fare
    • Wine cellar with more than 1,000 options
    • Sociable long dining tables

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and 2 wks in Sept. No dinner Sun.
  • 9. Tia Alice

    $$

    Considered one of Portugal's best traditional restaurants, whose eponymous chef was recently decorated by the country's head of state, "Aunt Alice" is in an inconspicuous old house with French windows across from the parish church, just over 2 km (1.3 miles) from the shrine. A flight of wooden stairs inside leads down to an intimate dining area with stone walls. The arroz de pato (duck rice) is among the many meat dishes worth trying, as is the bacalhau gratinado (baked salt cod with béchamel sauce), which serves two.

    Av. Irmã Lúcia de Jesús 152, Fátima, Santarém, 2495–557, Portugal
    249 531 737

    Known For

    • Outstanding bacalhau and other traditional dishes
    • Elegant flower-filled garden provides some outdoor seating
    • Little crafts shop at the top of the stairs

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and Feb. 1–10. No dinner Sun., Reservations essential
  • 10. A Bela Vista

    $

    The date on the sidewalk out front reads 1922, which was when the Sousa family opened this attractive little restaurant next to the old arched bridge. Carrying on the family tradition, the kitchen turns out great quantities of hearty regional fare. Try the fritada de gambas (fried prawns), filetes de pescada (hake fillets in batter), cabrito assado (roast kid), or arroz de polvo (octopus rice stew). For dessert, there's the local specialty, fatia de Tomar, made in-house with only egg yolks, sugar, and water.

    Rua Marquês Pombal 68 Ponte Velha, Tomar, Santarém, 2300–510, Portugal
    249 312 870

    Known For

    • For summer dining there's a small, rustic terrace
    • Views of the river and the nearby convent
    • Traditional local desserts

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Tues. and 2 wks in Oct. No dinner Mon.
  • 11. A Celeste

    $$

    Owner Dona Celeste likes to personally greet guests—who lately have included record-breaking U.S. surfer Garrett McNamara—at the entrance to her seafood restaurant on the Atlantic seafront. Among popular dishes here are espadarte à Celeste (swordfish with cream-and-mushroom sauce) and squid or monkfish on the spit. This coast is famous for its caldeirada (a Portuguese version of bouillabaisse with nine kinds of fish). Perhaps the most spectacular dishes here are the cataplana de peixe com camarão e amêijoas for two (fish stew with shrimp and clams, served with a flourish). In summer, it's a good idea to book ahead.

    Av. República 54, Nazaré, Leiria, 2450–102, Portugal
    262 551 695

    Known For

    • Don't miss the fish baked whole in salt
    • Family-friendly atmosphere
    • Occasional celebrity visitors

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Tues.
  • 12. A Coudelaria

    $

    Noted for bacalhau and octopus dishes as well as more traditional local meats, this restaurant's dishes are an excellent value. On Saturday there is a hearty buffet (€20), and on Sunday, people come from far and near for the cozido de carnes bravas à Ribatejana (stew made with meat from local bulls). 

    N118, Km 19, Benavente, Santarém, 2135–318, Portugal
    263 654 985

    Known For

    • Pretty dining rooms warmed by a stone fireplace
    • Dinner is available only for large groups, booked in advance
    • Array of tempting desserts

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and Aug. No dinner., Reservations essential
  • 13. A Lareira

    $

    With a name that is Portuguese for "fireplace," this elegant, spacious restaurant is nestled in pinewoods between Caldas da Rainha and the Foz do Arelho beach; it's a favorite with locals for special occasions. Try the tornedó de novilho tenderloin with one of various sauces. Seek assistance to get the best from the 300-strong wine list. Note that weekend meals are more expensive than the €12.50 set menu on weekdays.

    Rua da Lareira 35, Nadadouro, Leiria, 2500–593, Portugal
    262 823 432

    Known For

    • Extensive wine list
    • Affordable weekday set menu
    • Unique eel stew

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner
  • 14. Adega do Albertino

    $$

    This bustling tavern in the delightfully named village of Imaginário is no place for fussy eaters: it is renowned for regional dishes such as polvo na telha (octopus grilled on a roof tile) and morcela de arroz (a type of blood sausage). Leave some space for the eggy desserts, which are all homemade and delicious. Note that reservations are only accepted by phone, not by email.

    Rua Júlio Sousa 7, Caldas da Rainha, Leiria, 2500–312, Portugal
    262 835 152

    Known For

    • Unusual seafood dishes like eel stew and whelk salad
    • Generous servings of regional fare
    • Homemade desserts

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and 2 wks in Sept. or Oct. No dinner Sun.
  • 15. Adiafa

    $

    Near the town's bullring, this typical Ribatejo restaurant is decked out with bullfighting memorabilia. The ensopado de borrego (lamb stew) is renowned, as is the mangusto com bacalhau assado (a garlicky bread-and-cabbage concoction accompanying roasted codfish). Consider accepting the couvert, featuring cornbread with chouriço and orelha de porco (pig's ear, cooked with herbs). For dessert, ask for the celestes Santa Clara (almond cakes) or arrepiados de Almoster (almond meringues)—among the many local sweets invented by medieval monks and nuns.

    Campo Emilio Infante da Câmara, Santarém, Santarém, 2000–014, Portugal
    912 378 869

    Known For

    • Excellent selection of grilled meats
    • Fried shad from the Tagus River
    • A warming fire in the hearth

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Tues., last wk of Aug., and 1st wk of Sept.
  • 16. Alcaide

    $

    From the upstairs dining room and terrace of this rustic tavern, enjoy a lovely view of the village's rooftops and the countryside beyond. This isn't a quiet hideaway—Alcaide draws many hungry patrons, especially from May through October—but the food  is always prepared and served with flair. Filete de sardinha assada em broa (roasted sardines on corn bread) is a tasty starter, and great main dishes include the requinte de bacalhau (cod with a cheese, chestnut, and apple stuffing) or the tornedó com queijo da Serra (steak with creamy rustic cheese). Desserts include a traditional toucinho do céu ("heavenly" almond cake) and an English-style summer pudding with mixed berries.

    Rua Direita 60, Óbidos, Leiria, 2510–084, Portugal
    262 959 220

    Known For

    • Unusual use of local ingredients
    • Courteous service
    • Good value for the quality and location

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Wed. and 2nd half Nov.
  • 17. Alcôa

    $

    This little café across from the monastery is justly famed for its cakes and pastries, presented in a long glass display case. Since winning a national prize for its pastéis de nata (custard tarts) a few years ago, it has opened two offshoots in Lisbon.

    Praça 25 de Abril 44, Alcobaça, Leiria, 2460–018, Portugal

    Known For

    • Unique range of regional pastries
    • Beautiful presentation
    • Efficient service

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner
  • 18. António Padeiro

    $$

    This restaurant is best known for showcasing regional cuisine, with dishes such as chicken or partridge na púcara (cooked in an clay pot)—many of which evolved in local monasteries. Fans of bacalhau should try the house version: baked with a crust of cornbread and farinheira sausage. The walls are hung with local memorabilia and photos of the family that has run the place since 1938.

    Rua Dom Maur Cocheril 27, Alcobaça, Leiria, 2460, Portugal
    262 582 295

    Known For

    • Wide range of traditional eggy desserts as well as fresh fruit
    • Brisk but friendly service
    • Local history

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed 2 wks in June.
  • 19. Casinha Velha

    $$$

    In an old house with rustic Portuguese furniture, this eatery sits in a village that has long been a haven for gourmands. They bake their own bread on the premises—including a delicious pão chouriço—and there's a series of tasty starters. Trademark dishes include a noteworthy bacalhau com natas (codfish with cream) and duck rice; for specialties such as roast capon that must be ordered in advance, check the menu (ementa) on the website. Leave some room for a mixed dessert platter or for the brisa do Lis, a local almond pudding.

    Rua Professores Portelas 23, Marrazes, Leiria, 2415–534, Portugal
    244 855 355

    Known For

    • Pleasant downstairs bar where you can sample an aperitif
    • Extensive wine collection is prominently displayed
    • Everything is beautifully presented

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Tues. Closed 2 wks in Jan., and 2 wks in July. No dinner Sun.
  • 20. Cervejaria O Gordo

    $

    Serving beer, seafood, and other traditional fare since 1946, this lively local is a Torres Vedras institution. In addition to shellfish and octopus rice, favorites include squid kebabs, chargrilled meats, and roast bacalhau. For dessert, their classic caramel-covered pudim flan is hard to beat. The restaurant's trendier (and pricier) neighbor Taberna 22 has a wide selection of starters, grilled fresh fish and filet mignon, plus a range of fine wines.

    Rua Almirante Gago Coutinho 7A, Torres Vedras, Lisbon, 2560-302, Portugal
    261 323 079

    Known For

    • Well-chilled draught beer
    • Inexpensive seafood
    • Quick, friendly service

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No dinner Mon.

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