Estremadura and the Ribatejo Restaurants

We’ve compiled the best of the best in Estremadura and the Ribatejo - browse our top choices for Restaurants during your stay.

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  • 1. Burro Velho

    $

    The "Old Donkey" may be a relative newcomer to downtown Batalha, but its recipe of traditional dishes and an informal, modern ambience has won over locals and visitors alike. All ingredients are fresh and organic when possible, and there is a range of house-made breads, as well as an excellent choice of wines. Try any of the fresh fish dishes or a hearty meat option. 

    Rua Nossa Sra. Do Caminho, Batalha, Leiria, 2440-121, Portugal
    244 764 174

    Known For

    • Lively, informal atmosphere
    • Top-quality ingredients
    • Fresh fish and hearty meat dishes

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun.
  • 2. O Toucinho

    $

    This is Almeirim's most popular traditional restaurant, thanks to its excellent grilled meats—lamb and pork as well as steak—and of course the sopa da pedra, which O Toucinho claims to have reinvented back in the 1960s. It is run by a former forcado (one of the bullfighters who literally grab the animal by the horns)—as the bull's heads and bullfight posters will remind you.

    Rua de Timor 2, Almeirim, Santarém, 2080–095, Portugal
    243 592 237

    Known For

    • Check out the kitchen, where the rustic bread is made all day long
    • Desserts such as arroz doce are cooked in a wood-burning oven
    • Your choice of four handsome dining rooms

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Thurs., last 2 wks June and 1st wk Aug.
  • 3. A Bela Vista

    $

    The date on the sidewalk out front reads 1922, which was when the Sousa family opened this attractive little restaurant next to the old arched bridge. Carrying on the family tradition, the kitchen turns out great quantities of hearty regional fare. Try the fritada de gambas (fried prawns), filetes de pescada (hake fillets in batter), cabrito assado (roast kid), or arroz de polvo (octopus rice stew). For dessert, there's the local specialty, fatia de Tomar, made in-house with only egg yolks, sugar, and water.

    Rua Marquês Pombal 68 Ponte Velha, Tomar, Santarém, 2300–510, Portugal
    249 312 870

    Known For

    • For summer dining there's a small, rustic terrace
    • Views of the river and the nearby convent
    • Traditional local desserts

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Tues. and 2 wks in Oct. No dinner Mon.
  • 4. A Coudelaria

    $

    Noted for bacalhau and octopus dishes as well as more traditional local meats, this restaurant's dishes are an excellent value. On Saturday there is a hearty buffet (€20), and on Sunday, people come from far and near for the cozido de carnes bravas à Ribatejana (stew made with meat from local bulls). 

    N118, Km 19, Benavente, Santarém, 2135–318, Portugal
    263 654 985

    Known For

    • Pretty dining rooms warmed by a stone fireplace
    • Dinner is available only for large groups, booked in advance
    • Array of tempting desserts

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and Aug. No dinner., Reservations essential
  • 5. A Lareira

    $

    With a name that is Portuguese for "fireplace," this elegant, spacious restaurant is nestled in pinewoods between Caldas da Rainha and the Foz do Arelho beach; it's a favorite with locals for special occasions. Try the tornedó de novilho tenderloin with one of various sauces. Seek assistance to get the best from the 300-strong wine list. Note that weekend meals are more expensive than the €12.50 set menu on weekdays.

    Rua da Lareira 35, Nadadouro, Leiria, 2500–593, Portugal
    262 823 432

    Known For

    • Extensive wine list
    • Affordable weekday set menu
    • Unique eel stew

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner
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  • 6. Adiafa

    $

    Near the town's bullring, this typical Ribatejo restaurant is decked out with bullfighting memorabilia. The ensopado de borrego (lamb stew) is renowned, as is the mangusto com bacalhau assado (a garlicky bread-and-cabbage concoction accompanying roasted codfish). Consider accepting the couvert, featuring cornbread with chouriço and orelha de porco (pig's ear, cooked with herbs). For dessert, ask for the celestes Santa Clara (almond cakes) or arrepiados de Almoster (almond meringues)—among the many local sweets invented by medieval monks and nuns.

    Campo Emilio Infante da Câmara, Santarém, Santarém, 2000–014, Portugal
    912 378 869

    Known For

    • Excellent selection of grilled meats
    • Fried shad from the Tagus River
    • A warming fire in the hearth

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Tues., last wk of Aug., and 1st wk of Sept.
  • 7. Alcaide

    $

    From the upstairs dining room and terrace of this rustic tavern, enjoy a lovely view of the village's rooftops and the countryside beyond. This isn't a quiet hideaway—Alcaide draws many hungry patrons, especially from May through October—but the food  is always prepared and served with flair. Filete de sardinha assada em broa (roasted sardines on corn bread) is a tasty starter, and great main dishes include the requinte de bacalhau (cod with a cheese, chestnut, and apple stuffing) or the tornedó com queijo da Serra (steak with creamy rustic cheese). Desserts include a traditional toucinho do céu ("heavenly" almond cake) and an English-style summer pudding with mixed berries.

    Rua Direita 60, Óbidos, Leiria, 2510–084, Portugal
    262 959 220

    Known For

    • Unusual use of local ingredients
    • Courteous service
    • Good value for the quality and location

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Wed. and 2nd half Nov.
  • 8. Alcôa

    $

    This little café across from the monastery is justly famed for its cakes and pastries, presented in a long glass display case. Since winning a national prize for its pastéis de nata (custard tarts) a few years ago, it has opened two offshoots in Lisbon.

    Praça 25 de Abril 44, Alcobaça, Leiria, 2460–018, Portugal

    Known For

    • Unique range of regional pastries
    • Beautiful presentation
    • Efficient service

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner
  • 9. Cervejaria O Gordo

    $

    Serving beer, seafood, and other traditional fare since 1946, this lively local is a Torres Vedras institution. In addition to shellfish and octopus rice, favorites include squid kebabs, chargrilled meats, and roast bacalhau. For dessert, their classic caramel-covered pudim flan is hard to beat. The restaurant's trendier (and pricier) neighbor Taberna 22 has a wide selection of starters, grilled fresh fish and filet mignon, plus a range of fine wines.

    Rua Almirante Gago Coutinho 7A, Torres Vedras, Lisbon, 2560-302, Portugal
    261 323 079

    Known For

    • Well-chilled draught beer
    • Inexpensive seafood
    • Quick, friendly service

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No dinner Mon.
  • 10. Dom Duarte

    $

    The dishes of the day at this bustling second-floor restaurant are excellent value, and the house wine—from a local producers' cooperative—goes down well, too. Some tables in the main dining room have views of the monastery, but at peak times you may be seated on the covered terrace in back. Try the house bacalhau (fried with onions and tomato), roast octopus, barbecued squid, or lamb chops.

    Praça Dom João I, 5C, Batalha, Leiria, 2440–108, Portugal
    244 766 326

    Known For

    • Specializes in a range of tasty bacalhau dishes
    • Everything served in generous portions
    • Friendly service
  • 11. Foz

    $

    This bustling restaurant is one of several overlooking the Praia da Areia Branca, the area's prettiest beach, but stands out in terms of its view (due to its elevated position) and the quality of its food, above all the expertly grilled fish. If you want something more elaborate, try the polvo panado (battered octopus, served with bean rice), bacalhau com broa (with a cornbread gratin), or monkfish rice.

    Passeio do Mar, Lourinhã, Lisbon, 2530-240, Portugal
    261 469 348

    Known For

    • Servings usually large enough for two
    • Ultrasweet traditional desserts
    • Famous local brandy

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and 2nd half of Nov.
  • 12. Gabriel

    $

    This family-run restaurant opposite the Vila Galé draws a crowd for its fresh seafood and fish—the latter grilled over charcoal by the owner. The two dozen seats in the original dining room weren't nearly enough space, so the place added a second dining room that's decorated in smart beach-house style.

    Praça dos Navegantes, Ericeira, Lisbon, 2655–320, Portugal
    261 863 349

    Known For

    • Outside of summer, dinner usually only Friday and Saturday
    • Gets crowded, so book ahead
    • Terrace dining

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Wed. and Nov. No dinner Tues. No dinner Sun.–Thurs. Oct.–Apr.
  • 13. O Crispim

    $

    One of Fátima's longest-established restaurants (open since 1968), this place just outside the inner ring road is above all known for the quality of its grilled meat and fish. The vine-shaded esplanade is another big draw, creating a real family ambience. Leisurely lunches—either outside or in the wood-and-stone dining room—are made possible by the fact that the kitchen keeps going throughout the afternoon. Top sellers include tender vitela Mirandesa steak and bacalhau à lagareiro (cod baked with onions, potatoes, and olives).

    Rua São João Eudes 23, Fátima, Santarém, 2495–630, Portugal
    249 532 781

    Known For

    • Complimentary glasses of Portuguese brandy
    • Main dishes are big enough for two or three
    • Wide range of traditional desserts

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Tues., last wk June, first half July. No dinner Mon., Reservations essential
  • 14. Pastelaria Fradinho

    $

    Just across from the Palácio Nacional de Mafra, the Pastelaria Fradinho is a welcome respite from the rigors of sightseeing. Light, cheerful, and adorned with tiles, the café is famed for its delicious homemade pastries including the little egg-and-almond tarts called, predictably, fradinhos (little friars).

    Praça da República 28–30, Mafra, Lisbon, 2640–595, Portugal
    261 814 707

    Known For

    • Tasty sweet treats
    • Fast service
    • Light meals
  • 15. Retiro dos Caçadores

    $

    A big brick fireplace, wood paneling, and stone walls set the mood in this cozy hunter's lodge, where the food is simple, but portions are hearty and the flavors are tantalizing. This is the best place in town for fresh game, especially codorniz and coelho (rabbit), which comes casserole-style with rice or potatoes.

    Rua São João Deus 44, Fátima, Santarém, 2495–456, Portugal
    249 531 323

    Known For

    • Dining room has a step-back-in-time feel
    • Huge hearth warms the place in winter
    • Friendly staff

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Wed., Carnival wk, and last 2 wks in July. No dinner Sun.
  • 16. Santa Isabel

    $

    In this warren of stone-flagged rooms, authentic regional dishes are served with flair to well-heeled patrons. Specialties at the old town spot include churrasquinho de porco preto com migas de alheira de caça (grilled meats from the acorn-fed Iberian black pig, served with a bread-crumb-and-garlic-sausage mixture flavored with game sausage) and partridge rice. Braver diners might try cabidela de galo (chicken cooked in blood) or lamprey, when it is in season.

    Rua Santa Isabel 12, Abrantes, Santarém, 2200–393, Portugal
    241 366 230

    Known For

    • Off the tourist trail
    • On winter evenings, there's a fire in the grate
    • A good range of Portuguese wines

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun., Mon., and 1 wk in July, Reservations essential
  • 17. Supatra

    $

    This renowned Thai restaurant near Bombarral is just down the road from the gardens at Buddha Eden. In a spacious former winery, the smiling staff serve the real deal: prawn or beef salad brimming with fruit, and specialties such as tom yan kung (spicy soup with shrimp, lemongrass and mushrooms) and gaeng kiaw wan kai (green curry with chicken and coconut).

    Rua Poeta José Ferreira Ventura 73, Bombarral, Leiria, 2540–422, Portugal
    918 261 200-cell

    Known For

    • Excellent dishes like stir-fried noodles with shrimp and peanuts
    • Chestnut pudding is a tasty dessert
    • Wide range of vegetarian dishes

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. year round and Tues.–Wed. mid-Sept.–June. No dinner Sun., Reservations recommended
  • 18. Taberna da Quinzena

    $

    Photos of satisfied patrons testify to the popularity of this rustic restaurant run by the great-grandson of the original owner, offering hearty traditional fare at low prices. Specialties—in servings large enough for two—include toiro bravo (wild bull) and entrecosto com arroz de feijoca (spareribs with red beans and rice), but the menu is overhauled daily. The restaurant now has several offshoots in the region, one of them in the Santarém Hotel.

    Rua Pedro de Santarém 93, Santarém, Santarém, 2000–223, Portugal
    243 322 804

    Known For

    • Charmingly old-fashioned interior
    • Lots of bullfighting souvenirs
    • The place to try local wines

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. and 2nd half of Aug.
  • 19. Tia Alice

    $

    Gourmets come from far and wide to the village of Negrais, 15 km (9 miles) south of Mafra, to sample the suckling pig served there and wash it down with frisante (lightly sparkling wine). There are several local specialists, but "Aunt Alice" has led the herd for more than 25 years. Climb the stairs to the airy second-floor dining room, with its artsy decor, for a perfectly crisped roast, usually accompanied by round potato fries, orange slices, and salad. Fans of nose-to-tail eating can instead opt for arroz de miúdos (rice made with offal). There are also non-pork alternatives, such as bacalhau and steak.

    Largo do Rossio 16, Lisbon, Portugal
    219 279 467

    Known For

    • Roast suckling pig with tasty side dishes
    • Inexpensive house bubbly
    • Charming decor and staff

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner Mon. and Sun.

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