Fodor's Expert Review Rathlin Island

There's a sense of dreamy loneliness about this spot, rising 8 km (5 miles) offshore beyond the tide rip of Sloch na Marra (Valley of the Sea) and across Rathlin Sound. About 140 people still live on Northern Ireland's only offshore island, amid the twin delights of history and wildlife. The postman doubles as the lighthouse keeper and the school has just eight children. In 1306, the Scottish king, Robert the Bruce, took shelter in a cave (under the east lighthouse) and, according to the popular legend, was inspired to continue his armed struggle against the English by watching a spider patiently spinning its web. It was on Rathlin in 1898 that Guglielmo Marconi set up the world's first cross-water radio link, from the island's lighthouse to Ballycastle. Hiking and bird-watching—look out for the Atlantic nomads: thousands of choughs, puffins, guillemots, and razorbills nesting on the cliffs and sea stacks in the summer—are the island's main activities. There are seven separate walking trails leading you through a mosaic of different habitats including mire, fen, and heathlands which in the spring and summer are filled with carpets of wildflowers such as orchids, tormentil, and eyebright. Most of the trails are gentle strolls varying from two to six kilometers. The island also boasts several excellent craft shops, including the Breakwater Studio, specializing in the art of Rathlin selling ceramics, jewelry, paintings, soaps, candles, and diffusers.

The Rathlin West Light Seabird Centre and Lighthouse ( 028/2076–0062) is the best place to head for spectacular close-ups of the birds, an awesome sight, which is known as Northern Ireland's largest seabird city. It is more than 6½ km (4 miles) from the harbor at Church Bay, so it's best to take the privately run Puffin Bus (£5 round-trip). Eight waymarked walking trails covering 45 km (27 miles) have been given quality status, meaning they are among the best available. 

The Boathouse Visitor Centre ( 028/2076–2225) houses a collection of photographs, tools, and implements from the island's past. The center is open from April through mid-September. A high-speed double-decker catamaran, the M.V. Rathlin Express, cuts the 10-km (6-mile) journey time crossing over the Sea of Moyle to 25 minutes; from July to September it runs six round-trips daily (£12; reservations 24 hours ahead essential). Unless the sea is extremely rough, the M.V. Spirit of Rathlin ferryboat also makes four daily round-trips (£12, reservations also essential). This more leisurely trip can take up to 45 minutes; be mindful of the weather to ensure that you can return on the same day. The last return to Ballycastle is at 4:15 pm for the Rathlin Express and 5:30 pm for the Spirit of Rathlin. The Rathlin Sound Maritime Festival is a 10-day annual celebration of the area's rich natural history, culture, and music held at the end of May and beginning of June and offers an inspiring mix of activities including a regatta, talks, and tours.

If you want lunch, the best place is the historic Manor House with outdoor tables by the water's edge. The former residence of the island laird, this elegant, whitewashed, Georgian building is now in the care of the National Trust.