Fodor's Expert Review Osteria Ca' d'Oro (alla Vedova)

"The best polpette in town," you'll hear fans of the venerable Vedova say, and that explains why it's an obligatory stop on any giro d'ombra (bacaro tour); the polpette are always hot and crunchy—and also gluten-free, as they're made with polenta. Ca' d'Oro is a full-fledged trattoria as well, but make sure to reserve ahead: it's no secret to those seeking traditional Venetian fare at reasonable prices, locals and travelers alike. Vedova is one of the few places that still serves house wine in tiny, traditional palline glasses (never fear: if you order a bottle you'll get fancier glassware).