Fodor's Expert Review Cantina Nardi

It's open only for lunch and it's well off the beaten path (even if it is in the center of Livorno's shopping district), but getting here is worth the trouble: this tiny place has a short menu that changes daily, a superb wine list, and a gregarious staff. Its baccalà alla livornese (deep-fried salt cod served with chickpeas) is succulent and crisp; soups, such as ribollita, are very soothing. You could also pop in to sample a glass at the wine bar or to browse the shelves filled with wines from all over Italy.