Fodor's Expert Review Mare alla Voliga

Hidden halfway up the hill to the Castello di San Giusto, in what the Triestini call Zità Vecia (Old City), this informal little restaurant specializes in simply prepared seafood. Amid whitewashed wooden walls and nautical ephemera, you can sample the freshest catches—bluefish, sardines, mackerel, mussels, and squid—accompanied by salad, potatoes, polenta, and house wine. The consistently tasty dishes, especially the fish soup and the sardoni in savor (large sardines with raisins, pine nuts, and caramelized onions), show what a talented chef can do on a limited budget.