Campania's Wine Renaissance
Two thousand years ago, wine from Campania was considered some of the best in the Roman Empire. But in recent centuries, the region's wine production—and quality—declined, only to rise from mediocrity in the past 20 years. Now Campanian wine is once again captivating the palates of wine connoisseurs.
A vinous renaissance is underway: traditional grape varieties like Aglianico and Piedirosso (reds) and Fiano and Falanghina (whites) have halted the southward expansion of "foreign" (i.e., northern Italian) intruders like Sangiovese and Trebbiano. There is a new spirit of pride and achievement in the region, evidenced by the rapid increase in production of DOC (Controlled Denomination of Origin) wines, meaning they are recognized by Italy's system for ensuring quality. Like those in Tuscany to the north, wineries are increasingly opening their doors to the public.
Label Terms
Italian wine laws are complex. Fortunately wine labels feature some indications of quality and style. The most rigorous classification—with restrictions on geographic zone, grape variety, and production methods—is DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), followed by DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata), and IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica), which has the fewest restrictions.
Aglianico (Taurasi)
The most renowned regional red variety is Aglianico, which makes Taurasi near Avellino, the first-ever southern Italian wine to receive a DOCG label (1993). Taurasi has been called "the Barolo of the south" for its structure and ability to age. Aglianico yields full-bodied red wines with crisp acidity, robust tannins, and complex flavors of plum and spice. These wines are excellent with grilled steak, pizza, and pasta with meat ragù.
Coda di Volpe
This ancient full-bodied white grape is grown near Naples. Until recently, it was used as a blending grape with Falanghina and Greco (in the white Vesuvio DOC) or Fiano. Now it is possible to find the crisp, medium-bodied Coda di Volpe bottled by itself. The varietal is excellent with gently prepared (not grilled) shellfish dishes or panfried fish, as it is fairly neutral and can be overwhelmed by strongly flavored foods.
Falanghina
An ancient white grape that may have been a base for the fabled Falernum, Falanghina was the most highly prized wine of the Roman period. It is a full-bodied, fresh-tasting white wine with fruity notes. Falanghina can be found in many DOC wines by itself, and is blended with Greco and Biancolella to make Capri Bianco, the DOC white wine from the island of Capri. Falanghina is acidic enough to pair well with grilled and fried seafood dishes.
Fiano (Fiano di Avellino)
This classical white grape shows best in the volcanic soils of Avellino, where it has garnered DOCG status. The wine expresses strong flavors of honey, spices, and nuts. It is excellent as an aperitivo, and pairs well with tough-to-match artichokes, as well as seafood linguine and most fish dishes.
Greco (Greco di Tufo)
Greco is a Campanian variety that does best around the village of Tufo, where it has DOCG status. The soil there is a sulfurous soft rock called tufo (tuffeau in French). Greco is a light white wine that expresses ripe stone fruits, like peaches, with notes of almond and citrus. It is great served as an aperitivo and matched with cold antipasto.
Piedirosso (aka Per'e Palummo)
This late-ripening red grape variety produces a fruity wine with notes of cherries and herbs. It is the main grape in the red wines of Vesuvio DOC and Capri DOC. Piedirosso pairs well with pizza, cured meats, and grilled vegetables.
