Fodor's Expert Review Trattoria da Pina di Maniaci

Owner Franco Maniaci might be one of the most welcoming people in all of the islands, with his gentle laugh and accommodating attitude. His little restaurant (named for his parents) in the southern town of Gelso relies on the seasons and the day's fresh catch to dictate the menu. The vegetable fritto misto often includes wild fennel while the rosy tuna echoes the hues of freshly sun-kissed diners. And his fried or grilled totano will make you realize that every bite of calamari you've eaten until now ultimately had no flavor.