Fodor's Expert Review Ai Lumi

This popular restaurant on the pedestrianized Corso Vittorio Emanuele occupies some former stables, though the modern art on the walls and its candlelit tables evoke far more romantic associations. Dishes are predominantly local and sea-based, like a delicious fish couscous, ghiotta di pesce misto (mixed seafood in a rich sauce of tomatoes, olives, and capers), and swordfish involtini (roulades) served with orange. If you want a change from seafood, try the caserecce al pesto trapanese e melanzane fritte, a variant of the famous local pasta dish made with almonds and tomato and topped with fried eggplant. In summer, you can dine at outdoor tables.