Fodor's Expert Review Ciro Oliva Concettina ai Tre Santi

In the 1954 film L'Oro di Napoli Sofia Loren sold fried pizza from a basso (a street-level room), something Concettina Flessigno Oliva had already been doing since three years earlier. Now one of Naples's most highly acclaimed pizzerias, her great-grandson's menu includes all the usual culprits as well as pizza wedges based on local in-season ingredients. Twenty-seven Pulcinella masks by renowned local artist Lello Esposito hang in the entrance, and a Nativity scene is perched over the proceedings in the long hall. If you add €2.50 to your bill you can partake in the tradition of pizza sospesa, a free meal for the next needy person to pass by. Gluten-free pizzas are also available.